Companion creeping jenny means pairing Lysimachia nummularia with plants that share its need for consistently moist soil and tolerate light levels from full sun to partial shade.
The best companions include hostas, ferns, heuchera, daylilies, and astilbe.
Key variables are light level, which directly changes creeping jenny’s leaf color, and cultivar choice, since the golden ‘Aurea’ form is significantly less aggressive than the green species.
Never plant the straight green species near waterways or wetlands.
You chose creeping jenny because it looked perfect: that trailing chartreuse foliage spilling over a pot or carpeting a shady corner of the garden.
Then it started going where it was not supposed to go, or you tried to pair it with other plants and ended up with one thing swallowing another.
Or maybe everything looks flat because nothing around it contrasts well.
Choosing the right companions for creeping jenny is less about finding plants it ‘likes’ and more about understanding what it does in a space and selecting partners that can hold their own beside it, complement its color, or benefit from the same moist conditions it prefers.
Get that right and the planting comes together quickly.
This guide covers the best companions for creeping jenny across different garden situations, the plants to keep away from it, and the one thing most articles get completely wrong about how to use it with other plants.
Understanding Creeping Jenny Before You Pick Companions
Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is a low-growing, mat-forming perennial that spreads by rooting wherever its stems touch the ground.
It grows 2 to 4 inches tall but can spread 12 to 18 inches in a single season under good conditions.
It thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9 and performs best in consistently moist, moderately fertile soil.
The most important thing to know before you pair it with anything: there are two very different versions of this plant available to most US gardeners.
| Cultivar | Foliage Color | Spread Rate | Best Use |
| L. nummularia (species) | Deep green | Very aggressive | Avoid near wild areas |
| ‘Aurea’ | Golden chartreuse (greener in shade) | Moderate, much less invasive | Ground cover, containers |
| ‘Goldilocks’ | Yellow-green | Moderate | Containers, mixed beds |
The green species is listed on the Federal Invasive Plant List for numerous states including Connecticut, Indiana, Maryland, Michigan, Missouri, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Virginia, Wisconsin, and West Virginia, among others.
The golden cultivars are considerably less aggressive and produce fewer viable seeds, which is why they dominate the retail market.
If you bought your creeping jenny from a garden center in the last few years, it is almost certainly ‘Aurea’ or a similar golden form.
| Warning: Check Your State Before Planting in the Ground The straight green species of Lysimachia nummularia is banned or restricted in several US states and actively causes problems near streams, wetland edges, and floodplain areas. Even the golden cultivars should be kept away from natural waterways, as stems can detach and root downstream. If you live near wetlands or drainage areas, containers are the safer choice regardless of cultivar. |
This matters for companion planting because the cultivar you have determines how aggressively it will move toward its neighbors. ‘Aurea’ will still spread, but it is much less likely to smother a nearby hosta than the species form would be.
How Light Changes Creeping Jenny’s Color
Creeping jenny’s foliage color shifts substantially with light exposure, and this directly affects which companions look best beside it.
In full sun, ‘Aurea’ turns a bright, brassy gold. In partial shade, the leaves settle into a soft chartreuse or lime green. Within deeper shade, they trend toward a cooler, more muted green.
This means a companion combination that looks striking in a sunny spot can look flat in shade if you have chosen the companions based on how the plant appeared in a nursery photo taken in full sun.
Plan companions based on the actual light conditions in your planting location, not based on how creeping jenny appears in catalog images.
The Best Companion Plants for Creeping Jenny in Shade
Shaded and part-shaded conditions suit creeping jenny well, and this is where it tends to look its best in mixed plantings.
The cooler, more saturated chartreuse of the foliage in lower light provides excellent contrast with dark or bold-leaved plants.
Hostas
Hostas are the most reliable companions for creeping jenny in shade, and the pairing works for a straightforward reason: their broad, paddle-shaped leaves provide a dramatic textural contrast to creeping jenny’s small, coin-shaped foliage.
They also share the same preference for consistently moist, humus-rich soil and partial to full shade.
The best hosta companions are the larger, darker-leaved varieties. ‘Halcyon’ with its blue-grey leaves, or the deep green ‘Sum and Substance’ both make creeping jenny’s chartreuse pop in a way that paler or yellow hostas simply do not.
If you want a color echo rather than contrast, a golden hosta like ‘Sum and Substance’ or ‘Sun Power’ picks up the yellow tones in creeping jenny’s foliage and ties the planting together visually.
One practical note: hostas do not need the level of moisture creeping jenny prefers for its best performance.
The ground cover can actually help maintain soil moisture around hosta roots in summer, which is a genuine functional benefit rather than just an aesthetic one.
Plant creeping jenny at the hosta’s edge, not directly under it, where it would compete with the crown.
Ferns
Ferns bring feathery, upright texture that balances creeping jenny’s low horizontal spread.
Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum) is particularly effective because its silver-grey fronds provide cool contrast against the warm chartreuse below.
Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) works well for larger spaces where you want height alongside the ground cover.
Both ferns and creeping jenny thrive in the same moist, shaded conditions, so they make natural partners without one outcompeting the other for water.
The key is giving each enough space: plant ferns 18 to 24 inches apart, with creeping jenny filling the gaps between them rather than competing directly at the crown.
Astilbe
Astilbe earns its place as a companion because it does something neither hostas nor ferns do: it adds vertical color.
The feathery plumes in deep red, bright pink, or white rise 12 to 24 inches above creeping jenny’s mat and create real dimension in a shaded planting.
Both plants share USDA zones 3 through 9 and both prefer reliably moist soil, which is exactly why the pairing is so functional.
Astilbe suffers visibly if the soil dries out, turning its foliage crisp and brown at the edges.
Creeping jenny, covering the soil surface, helps reduce moisture loss from evaporation, which directly benefits the astilbe roots nearby.
This is one of those combinations where the companion relationship goes both ways.
Ajuga (Bugleweed)
Purple-leaved ajuga (Ajuga reptans) is one of the most visually effective companions for golden creeping jenny, and it is underused in most planting suggestions.
The deep burgundy-purple rosettes of ajuga directly contrast the yellow-green of creeping jenny, and because both are low-growing spreaders, they weave together naturally at the edges rather than one climbing over the other.
The honest caution with this pairing is that both plants spread assertively, and in very moist, fertile soil, ajuga can occasionally get the upper hand and crowd into creeping jenny. In practice, this is less of a problem in light shade where both are somewhat slower.
Keep an eye on the boundary between the two in the first season and pull back whichever is advancing too aggressively.
The Best Companion Plants for Creeping Jenny in Sun
In full sun, creeping jenny turns a brighter, more golden yellow and can take on a slightly scorched look at the leaf edges in very hot southern summers.
Its sun companions need to tolerate or prefer similar moisture levels, since creeping jenny in full sun dries out faster and needs consistent watering to look its best.
Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Heuchera is arguably the single best companion for golden creeping jenny in a sunny to part-sun position.
Dark-leaved cultivars such as ‘Palace Purple,’ ‘Obsidian,’ or ‘Black Pearl’ create a color contrast that is genuinely striking.
The deep burgundy or near-black foliage of these heucheras makes the chartreuse of creeping jenny look almost luminous by comparison.
This is the combination most worth seeking out if you want a planting that catches attention.
The practical reason this works so well is size compatibility.
Heuchera grows 8 to 18 inches tall and forms a neat mound rather than spreading aggressively, which means it holds its position while creeping jenny covers the surrounding ground.
Heuchera is also hardy in zones 4 to 9 and tolerates the same moist, well-drained soil conditions.
One thing most guides miss about this pairing: heuchera is prone to heaving out of the ground in freeze-thaw cycles.
Creeping jenny’s mat growing around heuchera’s crown can help insulate the root zone and reduce heaving in colder zones.
Press any heaved heuchera crowns back down in early spring before growth resumes.
Daylilies
Daylilies (Hemerocallis) provide height, color, and summer interest above a mat of creeping jenny, and they share the same hardiness range and soil preferences.
Orange-flowered varieties like ‘Stella de Oro’ or ‘Happy Returns’ complement creeping jenny’s golden tones.
Purple or deep red varieties create bolder contrast.
The functional advantage of this combination is timing: daylily foliage emerges in spring before many other plants, and creeping jenny fills the open ground between the clumps as the season progresses.
The ground cover reduces weed pressure around the daylily crowns, which is a real benefit in beds where bare soil would otherwise become an open invitation for weeds.
Watch the spread of creeping jenny into daylily crowns in its second or third season. It generally does not cause problems with established daylilies, but if the mat becomes thick over the crown it can slow drainage and create conditions for crown rot.
Clear it back from the base in early spring if it has crept too close.
Ornamental Grasses (Upright, Clumping Varieties)
Clumping ornamental grasses add vertical interest and movement above creeping jenny’s flat carpet.
Japanese blood grass (Imperata cylindrica ‘Red Baron’) is a particularly effective combination: the vivid red blades of the grass against bright chartreuse below is one of the more visually interesting ground-level pairings in garden design.
Use clumping grasses rather than spreading varieties.
Running grasses like some miscanthus forms will spread as aggressively as creeping jenny itself and you will spend years untangling the two.
Blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) and blue fescue (Festuca glauca) are compact clumpers that create cool blue-grey contrast against warm golden foliage.
Creeping Jenny as a Container Companion
Containers are where creeping jenny genuinely shines as a companion plant, and where the invasiveness concern disappears entirely.
In a pot, its trailing stems spill over the edge and provide the ‘spiller’ role in the classic thriller-filler-spiller design approach.
The best container companions for creeping jenny are plants that create color or textural contrast without competing aggressively for the same rooting depth.
Creeping jenny has a shallow, fibrous root system, so it coexists well with deeper-rooting companions in larger containers.
| Companion Plant | Contrast It Provides | Sun Requirement | Container Size |
| Dark heuchera (‘Obsidian’) | Deep burgundy foliage vs chartreuse | Part sun to shade | 12 inch minimum |
| Coleus (dark-leaved) | Bold color, upright habit | Part sun | 14 inch minimum |
| Sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas, purple) | Dark trailing foliage for layered spiller | Full sun to part sun | 14 inch minimum |
| Caladium | Large patterned leaves, height | Shade to part shade | 12 inch minimum |
| Upright sedum | Succulent texture, contrasting form | Full sun | 10 inch minimum |
One thing most container guides overlook: when creeping jenny stems trail over the edge and touch the ground, they will root.
If you are placing containers on soil, check the stems periodically and snip them before they establish new roots in the surrounding ground.
This is especially important in states where the plant is considered invasive.
| Tip: Getting the Best Color in Containers Creeping jenny’s foliage color is most vibrant in containers because you control the moisture and exposure precisely. Keep container soil consistently moist since the shallow root system dries out faster in pots than in the ground. In full sun positions, choose a larger pot (14 inches or more) to buffer soil temperature and moisture. In very hot climates, move containers with golden creeping jenny to afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch, which shows as pale, washed-out patches at the leaf margins. |
Companions for Creeping Jenny Near Water Features
Creeping jenny was originally a plant of boggy meadows, stream edges, and wet woodland margins in Europe.
It genuinely thrives with its roots in consistently wet ground, and some of its most effective companion pairings are plants that share this preference.
Around pond edges and water features, creeping jenny works beautifully with upright sedges such as Carex species.
The narrow, arching foliage of bronze or variegated sedges provides vertical interest that creeping jenny cannot provide itself.
Variegated sweet flag (Acorus calamus ‘Variegatus’) also pairs well, with its cream-and-green striped leaves rising above the chartreuse mat.
Moisture-loving iris species, particularly Japanese iris (Iris ensata) and Louisiana iris, work well in combination with creeping jenny at a pond margin because they share the same high water requirements. The tall, architectural flower stalks in midsummer above a carpet of chartreuse foliage is a combination that reads well at a distance.
| UK Reader Note: RHS Zone Equivalents and Native Alternatives In the UK, Lysimachia nummularia is native rather than invasive, and the RHS has awarded the golden cultivar ‘Aurea’ the Award of Garden Merit. UK gardeners do not face the same invasiveness concerns as those in the northeastern US. The RHS hardiness rating is H7 (fully hardy), equivalent to USDA Zone 3. UK companion planting approaches follow the same principles as outlined in this article, though you have the additional option of planting the straight species form without the environmental concerns that apply in the US. For RHS-approved companion suggestions, the RHS Plant Finder is an excellent resource. |
Plants to Avoid Pairing With Creeping Jenny
Knowing what not to plant with creeping jenny is as useful as knowing what works.
The main problems arise from two directions: plants that creeping jenny will overwhelm, and plants with incompatible requirements.
Small, Low-Growing Plants It Will Smother
Creeping jenny will overtop and crowd out any low-growing plant that cannot match its vigour.
Thyme planted directly alongside it as an equal ground cover partner sounds appealing in theory, but in practice creeping jenny frequently wins because it tolerates shade and moisture that thyme cannot.
If you want to grow thyme nearby, give it a raised, drier position where creeping jenny will not spread toward it comfortably.
Other small plants at risk include dianthus, small sedums, low-growing phlox, and most alpine plants.
Do not use creeping jenny as a ground cover filler between small perennial plants in a mixed border unless you are committed to pulling it back every season.
Drought-Tolerant Plants
Lavender, rosemary, sage, and other Mediterranean herbs have an entirely different soil moisture requirement from creeping jenny.
Planting them together results in either the herbs dying from overwatering or creeping jenny dying from drought. There is no middle ground. Keep these separate.
Delicate Spring Bulbs
There is a commonly repeated suggestion that creeping jenny makes a good ground cover companion for tulips and daffodils, filling in the space once bulb foliage dies back.
This is partially true for daffodils planted in grass or mixed perennial borders, but be careful with smaller, earlier-emerging bulbs.
Creeping jenny can smother small bulbs like snowdrops, scilla, or early crocus before they emerge, particularly if you have a dense mat that has overwintered well.
Larger bulbs like tulips and daffodils generally push through without a problem.
What Most Companion Planting Guides Get Wrong
The most widely repeated advice about pairing creeping jenny with other plants frames it purely as an aesthetic decision.
Choose something taller, something with contrasting color, something that likes the same conditions.
That advice is not wrong, but it misses the two factors that actually determine whether a pairing works in practice.
The first is cultivar.
Most guides treat creeping jenny as a single plant, but the difference in vigour between the straight green species and ‘Aurea’ is substantial enough that companion advice written for one does not apply reliably to the other.
In practice, ‘Aurea’ is manageable alongside most perennials given basic attention.
The green species will overwhelm almost everything at ground level over two to three seasons unless you actively contain it.
The second is the site-specific moisture variable.
Creeping jenny in reliably moist, partly shaded ground behaves very differently from creeping jenny in a dry, sunny border that gets irregular watering.
In dry conditions it spreads slowly and often looks stressed, with small, pale leaves and sparse coverage.
In those conditions it is not going to overwhelm anything, but it also is not going to perform as a companion the way you expect.
Pair it with plants suited to the actual conditions your site offers, not the conditions the plant prefers in theory.
| Tip: The Cultivar Question Worth Asking at the Nursery Before buying, ask specifically whether the plant you are purchasing is ‘Aurea,’ ‘Goldilocks,’ or the straight species. Many garden centers simply label all yellow-leaved forms as ‘creeping jenny’ without specifying the cultivar. The reliable indicator is that ‘Aurea’ and named cultivars will be sold in 4-inch pots or larger containers, while the straight species is sometimes sold bare-root or as divisions. If the leaves are a uniform deep green rather than yellow-green or chartreuse, it is probably the species form, which should only be planted in fully contained situations. |
Troubleshooting Common Companion Planting Problems
Creeping Jenny Is Overwhelming Its Neighbor
If creeping jenny is advancing into a companion plant, the first step is physical removal of the stems that have crossed the boundary.
Pull them carefully by hand rather than using a tool, because the stems root shallowly and usually come away cleanly from moist soil without disturbing the companion plant’s roots.
Do this in early spring before growth accelerates.
If the problem recurs, the underlying cause is usually one of two things: the companion plant is too low-growing to compete, or the soil is richer and moister than you anticipated when planting.
In the first case, replace the low companion with something taller or more vigorous. In the second case, improve drainage around the companion’s root zone or consider moving it to a drier spot.
Creeping Jenny Looks Pale and Sparse Between Other Plants
Pale, small leaves with slow spread usually indicate one of three conditions: the soil is too dry, the companion plants are blocking more light than expected, or the soil is too poor.
Check soil moisture first by pushing a finger 2 inches into the ground: if it feels dry, increase watering frequency.
If moisture is adequate, consider whether dense companion foliage above is creating too much deep shade, since creeping jenny needs at least some light to maintain its foliage color and growth rate.
In very deep shade with dry soil, creeping jenny will decline even if it initially establishes.
Companion Plant Crown Is Rotting Where Creeping Jenny Meets It
A dense mat of creeping jenny lying directly against the crown of a companion plant traps moisture and restricts airflow.
This creates exactly the conditions that favor crown rot, particularly in heuchera, astilbe, and hostas.
Clear the mat back at least 3 to 4 inches from any plant crown each spring.
This is the single most commonly overlooked maintenance task in gardens where creeping jenny is used as a ground cover with other perennials, and the one most worth prioritizing.
| Problem | Likely Cause | How to Confirm | Solution |
| Creeping jenny swamping companion | Companion too low-growing or soil too fertile | Companion covered or squeezed out | Pull back stems in spring, replace companion with taller plant |
| Pale, sparse foliage | Dry soil or excessive shade from companion | Check soil moisture at 2 inches depth | Increase watering or thin companion canopy |
| Crown rot on companion plant | Mat pressed against crown, reducing airflow | Soft, dark tissue at base of companion | Clear mat 3-4 inches from every crown each spring |
| Golden color fading to green | Companion plants blocking sun | Foliage greener than when planted | Increase light or accept shade coloring |
| Leaf edge scorch on creeping jenny | Too much direct sun with insufficient moisture | Pale, papery margins on leaves in afternoon | Move to afternoon shade or increase watering |
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best companion plants for creeping jenny in shade?
The best companions for creeping jenny in shade are hostas, ferns, and astilbe. Hostas provide strong textural contrast with their broad leaves and share the same preference for moist, humus-rich soil.
Japanese painted fern adds feathery texture and silver coloring that contrasts well with chartreuse foliage.
Astilbe contributes vertical color above the creeping jenny mat, and both plants perform best in consistently moist soil in USDA zones 3 through 9.
For best results in shade, choose darker-leaved hosta varieties to maximize the visual contrast with golden creeping jenny.
Can creeping jenny be planted with hostas?
Creeping jenny and hostas are one of the most reliable companion pairings in shade gardening.
Both plants prefer moist, well-drained soil with similar fertility levels and thrive in partial to full shade.
Creeping jenny’s small, round leaves contrast strongly with the large, bold foliage of most hosta varieties.
The ground cover also helps retain soil moisture around hosta roots during dry spells.
The important management note is to keep creeping jenny cleared back from the hosta crown by at least 3 inches, because a dense mat pressed against the crown can restrict airflow and contribute to crown rot over time.
Does creeping jenny spread aggressively into other plants?
Whether creeping jenny spreads aggressively depends almost entirely on which form you are growing.
The straight green species (Lysimachia nummularia) is genuinely invasive in many US states and spreads very quickly, rooting wherever stems touch moist ground.
The golden cultivars, particularly ‘Aurea’ and ‘Goldilocks,’ are significantly less aggressive and spread at a manageable pace in most garden settings.
In moist, fertile soil with full sun, even the golden cultivars can spread assertively, so they need periodic trimming back from companion plants.
In drier soil or deeper shade, spread is considerably slower.
What plants should not be grown with creeping jenny?
Avoid pairing creeping jenny with small, low-growing plants it can overwhelm, including low thyme, small sedums, alpine plants, dianthus, and delicate spring-flowering groundcovers.
Mediterranean herbs like lavender, rosemary, and sage should be kept separate because their soil moisture needs are incompatible: the wet conditions creeping jenny prefers would rot their roots.
Tiny bulbs like snowdrops and early crocus can be smothered by a dense mat.
Focus companions in the upright, taller category of plants where creeping jenny fills the ground level without competing directly for the same vertical space.
Is creeping jenny good for container companion planting?
Creeping jenny is excellent in containers because the invasiveness concern disappears entirely and its trailing habit provides the ‘spiller’ role in thriller-filler-spiller container design.
It pairs particularly well in containers with dark-leaved heuchera, upright coleus, purple sweet potato vine, and shade caladiums.
Keep container soil consistently moist since creeping jenny’s shallow root system dries out faster in pots than in the ground.
Snip trailing stems before they touch the surrounding soil to prevent unwanted rooting outside the container.
Can creeping jenny be planted near water features?
Creeping jenny is well suited to the edges of ponds and water features because it naturally grows along stream banks and in boggy ground in its native European range.
It pairs well near water with upright sedges, Japanese iris, Louisiana iris, and variegated sweet flag.
The important restriction is keeping it away from natural waterways, streams, and drainage channels where detached stems could float downstream and establish new colonies in wild areas.
In a garden pond or lined water feature, it is safe and attractive.
Always check local regulations before planting near any natural body of water.
How do I keep creeping jenny from taking over my garden bed?
The most effective way to manage creeping jenny in a mixed garden bed is to pull it back from companion plants each spring before it gains momentum for the season.
Use physical barriers such as buried metal edging strips sunk 6 inches into the ground to prevent spread into adjacent areas.
Growing creeping jenny on the outer edge of a bed with a paved path or driveway on one side gives you a hard boundary that costs nothing to maintain.
In fertile, moist conditions the ‘Aurea’ cultivar still needs trimming two to three times per season.
If that level of maintenance is not practical, containers are a better choice than in-ground planting.
What does creeping jenny look like when it is stressed?
A stressed creeping jenny shows several clear visual signs depending on what is causing the problem.
Drought stress produces small, slightly curled leaves with a dull, matte appearance rather than the usual glossy sheen, and overall growth slows noticeably.
Leaf edge scorch from too much direct sun without sufficient moisture shows as pale, papery margins that turn tan or white.
When light levels are too low for the cultivar, the golden ‘Aurea’ form shifts toward an increasingly green color without the warm yellow undertone, and growth becomes sparse and open rather than dense.
Root rot from waterlogged soil causes the stems to turn soft and dark at the base rather than remaining firm and green.
Key Takeaways
- Confirm your cultivar before pairing anything with it. ‘Aurea’ and ‘Goldilocks’ are manageable companions for most perennials. The straight green species is not recommended for mixed planting.
- Match companions to your actual light conditions. Creeping jenny’s foliage color shifts from gold in full sun to chartreuse and green in shade, which changes which companions contrast effectively.
- Dark-leaved heuchera is the best companion in sun. The contrast between deep burgundy and chartreuse is striking and the plants share compatible care requirements.
- Hostas are the most reliable companion in shade. The textural contrast is strong, moisture needs align, and both plants are low maintenance in the right conditions.
- Clear creeping jenny back from plant crowns each spring. A dense mat pressed against the crown of hostas, heuchera, or astilbe restricts airflow and can cause crown rot.
- Containers eliminate the invasiveness concern entirely. Use creeping jenny as a trailing spiller with upright companions in any pot 12 inches or larger.
- Never plant near natural waterways regardless of cultivar. Stems can detach and root downstream, establishing colonies outside the garden.
- Avoid pairing with drought-tolerant plants. The moisture requirements of creeping jenny and Mediterranean herbs are incompatible.
Bringing It All Together
Creeping jenny gets a bad reputation in some garden circles because of its spread, and it gets undeserved enthusiasm in others because it looks so easy in a nursery pot.
The reality is somewhere between the two.
Used with the right companion plants in the right situation, the golden forms are genuinely attractive and functional.
They provide weed suppression, retain soil moisture around companion roots, and create year-round foliage interest in beds where flowering plants take their seasonal breaks.
The pairing work that matters most is understanding light, matching moisture needs, and staying consistent with the one spring maintenance task of pulling the mat back from plant crowns.
Get those three things right and creeping jenny stops being the plant that takes over and starts being the one that ties everything together.
| What’s Next Now that you have a clear picture of which companion plants suit creeping jenny in different situations, the practical next step is assessing your specific planting location: measure the light it receives through the day, check the soil moisture 2 inches below the surface, and identify whether you are working in ground or in containers. That single assessment will narrow your companion choices down to two or three plants that will genuinely thrive rather than a long list that may or may not work in your conditions. |
Hi, I'm Matt,
An amateur gardener with a houseplant habit that got slightly out of hand.
I started Bean Growing to share what I've learned from a few years of trial, error, and the occasional dead plant.
I grow a mix of houseplants and outdoor shrubs in the UK but try to expand my knowledge to the US. I try to write about what actually works