How to Choose The Best Pot for a Monstera (Tips & Tricks)

Everything you need to know about pot size, material, drainage, and when to repot, so your monstera has the best possible foundation to grow in

Of all the decisions you make when growing a monstera, the pot you put it in is one of the most consequential and one of the most misunderstood.

Most people choose a pot based on how it looks.

That is not entirely wrong, because the pot you choose does affect the overall look of your space, and we will cover that.

But the pot you choose also determines how quickly the soil dries between waterings, how stable the plant is as it grows, how often you need to repot, and whether the conditions inside the pot support healthy root development or quietly push the plant toward root rot.

Root rot is the single most common cause of monstera death in cultivation, and in the majority of cases it is not caused by watering too often in isolation.

It is caused by the combination of watering habits, soil composition, and pot choice working together to keep the root zone wetter for longer than the plant can tolerate.

Getting the pot right is one of the most effective things you can do to protect your monstera from this outcome, and it makes every other aspect of care easier to manage correctly.

This guide covers every factor that matters when choosing a pot for your monstera: drainage, size, material, weight, position, and your own watering tendencies, as well as guidance on the most common pot materials, when and how to repot, and specific advice for UK readers on pot availability and outdoor growing considerations.

Pot Choice at a Glance

Why Your Pot Choice Matters More Than You Might Think

Before getting into specific recommendations, it is worth understanding why the pot has such a significant influence on the monstera’s health.

The monstera’s root system is shallow and fibrous.

It is adapted to the well-drained, organically rich forest soils of Central America, where water passes through quickly, roots access oxygen freely between rainfall events, and the growing medium never stays saturated for long.

In a home setting, the pot is what determines whether those conditions are replicated.

A pot without drainage holds excess water with no escape route, creating the waterlogged conditions that cause root rot.

A pot that is too large holds far more soil than the root system can draw moisture from, leaving large areas of the growing medium persistently wet.

A pot made of a non-porous material retains moisture at the pot walls rather than allowing it to evaporate, extending the time the soil stays wet after each watering.

None of these factors is fatal in isolation when managed carefully.

But together, in a home where watering is done on a schedule rather than in response to what the soil actually needs, they create conditions where root rot is a near-inevitability rather than a risk.

Choosing the right pot eliminates several of these risk factors before they arise.

For a full overview of monstera root health and what to do if things go wrong, see our guide on how to fix root rot in a monstera.

Factor 1: Drainage Holes

This is the single non-negotiable requirement for any monstera pot, and it is the one I am most emphatic about.

Every pot you use for a monstera must have at least one drainage hole, and larger pots benefit from multiple drainage holes to allow excess water to escape quickly and evenly from all parts of the growing medium.

Without drainage holes, the excess water from each watering session has nowhere to go.

It accumulates in the lower layers of the potting mix, displacing the air from the spaces between the soil particles and creating the oxygen-depleted, anaerobic conditions that root rot pathogens require to establish.

You can manage a drainage-free pot for a while by watering very carefully in very small quantities, but this is difficult to do consistently and leaves no margin for error.

One slightly generous watering session and the lower root zone is sitting in standing water with no way for it to drain.

The risk is never worth it when drainage holes are simple to provide.

What If Your Favourite Pot Has No Drainage Holes?

Many of the most attractive decorative pots are sold without drainage holes, and this is a common frustration.

The solution most experienced monstera growers use is the nursery pot and decorative pot system.

Grow the monstera in a plain nursery pot with ample drainage holes, sized correctly for the plant.

Place the nursery pot inside the decorative pot as a cache pot.

When you water, either remove the nursery pot and water it over a sink, allowing it to drain fully before returning it to the decorative pot, or water in place and remove any water that collects in the bottom of the decorative pot within fifteen to twenty minutes.

This system gives you the aesthetic benefit of any decorative pot you choose without compromising the drainage your monstera’s roots need.

It also makes repotting significantly easier, as the plant is always in a standard nursery pot that can be swapped out without disturbing the decorative outer pot.

Drilling Drainage Holes

If you want to use a specific pot that has no holes, it is possible to drill them using a masonry or tile drill bit for ceramic and terracotta, or a standard drill bit for plastic.

Mark the position of the holes on the base of the pot, use water to keep the drill bit cool during drilling, and work slowly to avoid cracking the pot.

The risk of cracking is higher with terracotta and glazed ceramic, particularly thinner-walled pots, so this approach works better on thicker, sturdier pots.

For a high-value decorative pot, the nursery pot system described above is a lower-risk approach.

Factor 2: Pot Size

Getting pot size right is one of the most impactful things you can do for your monstera’s health, and it is one of the areas where well-meaning plant owners most commonly go wrong.

The natural instinct when choosing a pot is to give the plant plenty of room to grow.

In practice, doing this usually harms the plant rather than helping it.

Why a Too-Large Pot Causes Problems

A pot significantly larger than the root ball of the monstera contains far more potting mix than the roots can draw moisture from.

After watering, the root zone absorbs what it needs, but the surrounding unused soil remains wet for an extended period because no roots are pulling moisture from it.

This persistently wet, unoccupied soil is where bacterial and fungal root rot establishes.

A too-large pot also diverts the plant’s energy.

When the monstera finds itself in a spacious pot, it prioritises expanding its root system to fill the available space rather than putting energy into producing new leaves and stems.

For a plant whose entire appeal is its extraordinary foliage, this is the opposite of what you want.

The Right Size at Each Stage

New cuttings and young plants: Start in a 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inch) pot.

This gives the developing root system enough room to spread without the surrounding soil staying wet indefinitely.

The plant will likely need to be stepped up to the next size within a year, but starting small and sizing up is always better than starting too large.

Repotting an established plant: Choose a pot 5 cm (2 inches) wider in diameter than the current pot.

This gives the root system room to expand into fresh soil without the excess of unused soil that causes problems.

For a plant in a 20 cm pot, move to a 25 cm pot.

For a plant in a 25 cm pot, move to a 30 cm pot.

Step up gradually rather than jumping multiple sizes.

Repotting to change the pot type: If you are repotting because you want a different pot material rather than because the plant has outgrown its current pot, check whether the roots have filled the current pot before deciding on the new size.

If the roots have not yet filled the current pot, use a new pot of the same size.

If the roots have filled the current pot, move up one size as described above.

How to Tell If Your Monstera Needs a Larger Pot

Roots emerging from the drainage holes is the clearest sign that the plant has outgrown its current pot.

The roots have nowhere left to go inside the pot and have reached the drainage holes in their search for space.

Roots circling visibly at the top of the soil surface indicate the same thing.

A plant that dries out very quickly after watering, sometimes within one to two days of a thorough watering session, is likely root-bound: the dense root mass is absorbing moisture rapidly because there is very little soil left to hold it.

Slower than usual growth during the active growing season, despite adequate light and appropriate watering, can also indicate that the root system is becoming too constrained to support the plant’s growth.

For more guidance on this topic, see our dedicated article on whether monsteras like to be root bound and our full guide on how to repot a monstera.

What About Pot Depth?

Depth matters less than width for monstera pots.

The monstera’s root system is shallow and spreads horizontally rather than growing deeply, so width is what gives the roots the room they need.

A pot that is excessively deep relative to its width encourages the plant to push roots downward into soil that the shallow root system does not naturally seek out, and the lower layers of a very deep pot are more likely to stay wet and poorly oxygenated.

Match the depth of the new pot roughly to the depth of the root ball, leaving a few centimetres of clearance below the lowest roots.

Factor 3: Pot Material

The material your pot is made from affects four things that matter directly to your monstera: how quickly the soil dries between waterings, how stable the pot is, how well the plant is insulated from temperature extremes, and how easy the pot is to move.

Understanding the characteristics of each material lets you match the pot to your specific growing situation and watering habits.

Terracotta: The Best All-Round Choice for Most Growers

Terracotta is the material I recommend most often for monstera, and there are specific practical reasons for this beyond tradition or aesthetics.

Terracotta is porous.

Water and air move through the pot walls, which means the soil dries from the outside in as well as from the top down and through the drainage holes.

In practice, this means soil in a terracotta pot dries out measurably faster than soil in the same size glazed ceramic or plastic pot under identical conditions.

For anyone who finds themselves watering too frequently, or who simply wants the most forgiving environment for the plant’s roots, this faster drying cycle is a genuine advantage.

Terracotta also acts as a visible moisture indicator.

A freshly watered terracotta pot is noticeably darker in colour as the moisture saturates the clay.

As the soil dries, the pot lightens progressively from the outside in.

When the pot looks uniformly light-coloured, the soil is likely dry enough to water.

This visual cue is particularly useful for new monstera owners who are still developing their sense of when the plant needs water.

The thick walls of terracotta provide useful thermal insulation, moderating temperature swings within the pot.

This is an advantage for plants kept outdoors or near windows, where temperature fluctuations between day and night can be significant.

The weight and solidity of terracotta also provides stability, which matters increasingly as the monstera grows larger and taller.

A large monstera with a moss pole for support becomes top-heavy, and a terracotta pot is significantly less likely to tip over than a lightweight plastic one.

The disadvantages of terracotta are equally important to understand.

Terracotta is brittle.

A knocked-over terracotta pot is likely to crack or shatter, particularly if it lands on a hard floor.

Keep terracotta pots away from high-traffic areas and positions where they could be knocked over by children or pets.

Because terracotta dries faster, you will need to water your monstera more frequently than you would in a glazed or plastic pot under the same conditions.

In warm, dry conditions or during summer when the plant is actively growing and using moisture quickly, this can mean watering every few days rather than weekly.

Terracotta can develop a white crusty residue on the outer surface over time, which is mineral salt build-up from the water and fertiliser passing through the porous walls.

This is harmless to the plant but can be removed by scrubbing the pot with a stiff brush and a diluted white vinegar solution before reuse.

Glazed Ceramic: Beautiful and Practical With the Right Setup

Glazed ceramic pots are made from the same clay base as terracotta, but a layer of glaze on the interior and exterior surface seals the porous clay, preventing the movement of water and air through the pot walls.

This makes glazed ceramic pots non-porous: moisture can only exit through the drainage holes, and the soil dries significantly more slowly than in terracotta.

For growers who tend to underwater their monstera, or who travel frequently and cannot water on a consistent schedule, this slower drying cycle is an advantage.

The soil retains moisture for longer, providing the roots with access to water for a more extended period between waterings.

Glazed ceramic pots are also significantly heavier than plastic pots of the same size, which improves stability for larger monsteras.

They are available in an enormous range of colours, textures, and finishes, which makes them the most versatile choice from an aesthetic perspective.

The key consideration with glazed ceramic pots is that they require more careful watering discipline than terracotta.

Because the soil dries slowly, the risk of overwatering is higher.

Always check the soil at a depth of 5 to 8 cm before watering rather than watering on a fixed schedule, and ensure the pot has ample drainage holes so excess water can exit quickly at each watering session.

See our full guide on monstera watering schedule for guidance on getting this right.

The disadvantages of glazed ceramic include weight, which makes large glazed ceramic pots very difficult to move once the plant and soil are in place, and fragility, as dropping a glazed ceramic pot on a hard floor will typically crack or shatter it.

They are also generally more expensive than terracotta or plastic pots of the same size.

Plastic: The Practical Choice for Flexibility and Ease

Plastic pots have developed a reputation for being the cheap and cheerful choice that serious plant owners upgrade away from as soon as possible.

In reality, plastic pots have genuine advantages that make them the right choice in several specific situations, and modern plastic pots are available in finishes and colours that closely replicate the appearance of terracotta, glazed ceramic, and other materials.

Plastic is lightweight.

For a monstera that needs to be moved regularly, whether to optimise its light position through the season, to rotate it for even growth, or to take it outdoors in summer and bring it back inside before the first frosts, the weight difference between a plastic pot and an equivalent terracotta or ceramic one is significant and practical.

A large monstera in a 30 cm ceramic pot can be genuinely difficult to move safely.

The same plant in a 30 cm plastic pot is manageable for one person.

Plastic is durable in the sense that it does not shatter when dropped.

Flexible plastic pots can absorb impacts that would crack terracotta or ceramic, which is particularly useful in outdoor positions and in homes with children or active pets.

Like glazed ceramic, plastic is non-porous, so the soil dries at a similar rate to ceramic.

This makes plastic pots more suitable for growers with consistent watering habits who check soil moisture rather than watering on a schedule.

The main disadvantage of plastic pots is their lower thermal insulation.

In outdoor positions or near cold windows in winter, the thin walls of a plastic pot offer less protection to the root system from temperature extremes than the thick walls of terracotta or ceramic.

For plants moved outdoors in summer, choose plastic pots that are at least 3 to 4 mm thick to provide some buffering from temperature fluctuations.

Other Materials: Fabric, Wood, and Metal

Fabric grow bags are increasingly used for monstera plants by experienced growers.

They are highly porous, allowing excellent air circulation around the root ball and very fast drying of the growing medium.

Air pruning of the roots, where the root tips die back naturally when they reach the air at the fabric wall, encourages the development of a dense, branching root system rather than the circling roots that can develop in solid-sided pots.

The disadvantages are that fabric pots are less aesthetically conventional for a home setting and require more frequent watering than any other pot type because of their rapid drying.

They work best as nursery pots placed inside a decorative cache pot.

Wooden planters and troughs can work well for monstera plants outdoors in summer, particularly for large specimens that have outgrown standard pot sizes.

Wood provides excellent insulation and a natural aesthetic.

The disadvantage is that wood degrades over time with repeated watering, and untreated wood can harbour the fungal pathogens responsible for root rot.

If using wooden planters, line the interior with breathable landscape fabric before adding soil to protect the wood and prevent soil loss through any gaps.

Metal pots are popular for their clean, contemporary appearance but are among the most problematic choices for monstera from a practical perspective.

Metal conducts heat efficiently, meaning the pot walls heat up in sun and cool down rapidly in shade, exposing the roots to temperature swings that can stress the root system.

Metal is also non-porous and, unlike ceramic, can rust or degrade if drainage holes are not maintained.

If you choose a metal pot for aesthetic reasons, use the nursery pot and cache pot system described earlier rather than planting directly into the metal container.

Factor 4: Your Watering Habits

This is one of the most practical and most overlooked factors in pot selection, and being honest with yourself about your watering tendencies leads to a better outcome for your plant than any other single decision.

If You Tend to Overwater

Terracotta is your best ally.

The faster drying cycle of a porous terracotta pot provides a natural buffer that works in the same direction as your watering habits rather than against them.

By the time the soil in a terracotta pot is dry enough to need water again, it has typically taken longer to get there than in a plastic or ceramic pot, and the visual cue of the lightening pot exterior tells you when you are getting close.

Ensure the potting mix is chunky and free-draining rather than dense and moisture-retentive.

See our guide on what soil to use for a monstera for specific soil composition recommendations.

A moisture meter inserted to the middle depth of the pot before every watering session removes the guesswork and is one of the best investments you can make if overwatering has been a recurring problem.

For more guidance on diagnosing and recovering from overwatering, see our guides on why monstera leaves turn yellow and how to fix root rot in a monstera.

If You Tend to Underwater

Glazed ceramic or plastic pots help by retaining moisture for longer between waterings, giving the plant a larger buffer against neglect.

A larger pot size relative to the root ball also retains more total soil moisture, though this must be balanced against the root rot risk that an oversized pot creates.

Consider grouping the monstera with other plants, which raises local humidity and reduces the rate at which the leaves lose moisture through transpiration, indirectly reducing the plant’s water demand.

Factor 5: Position and Mobility

Where you plan to keep your monstera, and how often you expect to move it, should influence your pot choice as much as any other factor.

Indoor Positions

For a monstera that will live permanently in one indoor position and not be moved often, weight and stability matter more than mobility.

A terracotta or glazed ceramic pot in the right size provides a stable base that is unlikely to tip over as the plant grows and becomes heavier.

For an indoor position where the plant will be rotated regularly to ensure even light exposure on all sides of the canopy, or moved between rooms seasonally, a lightweight plastic pot makes this practical.

Rotating a large monstera every one to two weeks, which encourages more even growth and prevents the characteristic lean toward the light source that develops when one side of the plant consistently receives more light, is significantly more sustainable as a habit when the pot is light enough to move without effort.

Outdoor Summer Growing

Moving a monstera outdoors for the summer growing season is something many plant owners do to take advantage of the better light and natural humidity that an outdoor position provides.

See our guides on growing monstera outside in summer and whether a monstera can live outside for full guidance on outdoor growing conditions.

For plants that will be moved outdoors in summer, a lightweight plastic pot makes the transition significantly easier, as the pot and plant combined can be very heavy once the growing medium is wet.

In an outdoor position, wind exposure is a consideration that does not apply indoors.

A terracotta or heavy ceramic pot is less likely to be blown over in a summer storm than a lightweight plastic pot with the same size plant in it.

If using plastic pots outdoors, place the pot in a sheltered position or weight it with stones or gravel in the base before adding the potting mix to increase stability.

Factor 6: Aesthetics and Décor

Your pot choice affects how the monstera looks in your home, and this is a legitimate consideration alongside the practical ones.

The monstera is a dramatic plant with bold, deeply fenestrated leaves that can anchor a room visually.

The pot should support rather than compete with this visual impact.

Simple, neutral-coloured pots in terracotta, white, grey, or natural tones allow the monstera’s foliage to take centre stage.

Patterned or brightly coloured pots can work well in the right setting, but in most home interiors the plant itself provides enough visual interest that a simpler pot serves it better.

The size of the pot also affects the visual balance of the plant in the space.

A mature monstera in a pot that looks too small for it appears unstable and ungrounded.

The pot should look proportionate to the plant’s canopy size, even if technically the root ball would fit in a smaller container.

This is one situation where slightly sizing up the pot beyond the strict horticultural recommendation is acceptable, provided the soil is fast-draining and watering is managed carefully.

When and How to Repot a Monstera

Knowing when to repot is as important as knowing which pot to choose.

Repotting too early disrupts the root system unnecessarily.

Repotting too late constrains the root system and limits the plant’s growth and health.

Signs Your Monstera Needs Repotting

Roots emerging from the drainage holes or visibly circling the top of the soil surface.

The plant drying out within one to two days of a thorough watering.

Significantly slowed growth during the active growing season despite adequate light and appropriate watering.

Roots that have pushed the plant upward so that the base of the stem is sitting above the rim of the pot.

Signs Your Monstera Does Not Yet Need Repotting

The roots have not yet filled the current pot and are not visible at the drainage holes.

The plant is growing steadily and producing new leaves at a reasonable rate.

The soil is drying at the expected rate for the current pot material and size.

If you have just bought a new monstera, wait until it shows signs of being root-bound before repotting, unless the current pot has no drainage holes or is clearly the wrong size for the plant.

Repotting immediately after purchase adds transplant stress on top of the stress of being moved to a new environment, and a healthy plant in an appropriate pot will establish better if left to settle for at least a growing season.

How to Repot

Water the monstera thoroughly one to two days before repotting.

Well-hydrated roots are more flexible and less prone to damage during the repotting process.

Prepare the new pot with a layer of fresh, well-draining potting mix in the base.

Lay the current pot on its side and ease the plant out gently, supporting the base of the stem.

For a root-bound plant where the roots have formed a tight mass, running a butter knife or thin spatula around the interior edge of the pot helps release the root ball.

Inspect the roots as you remove the plant.

Healthy roots are cream to white and firm.

Brown, soft, or foul-smelling roots indicate rot that should be cut away with clean, sharp scissors before repotting.

Dust any cut root surfaces with powdered cinnamon or a commercial fungicide.

Place the plant in the new pot so that the base of the stem sits at the same height relative to the pot rim as it did in the previous pot.

Fill in around the root ball with fresh potting mix, firming it gently to eliminate large air pockets.

Water thoroughly until drainage runs freely from the holes, allow to drain completely, and place the plant back in its normal position.

For a full step-by-step guide, see our dedicated article on how to repot a monstera.

Choosing a Saucer

A saucer placed beneath the pot to catch drainage water is an important part of the pot setup for any monstera grown indoors.

Without a saucer, drainage water runs onto floors, windowsills, and furniture.

With a saucer, it collects safely.

However, the saucer creates a risk if the drainage water is allowed to remain in it after watering: the pot then sits in standing water, which keeps the lower drainage holes submerged and reintroduces the waterlogging problem at the base of the root zone.

Empty the saucer completely within fifteen to twenty minutes of each watering session.

This is a non-negotiable habit for any monstera in an indoor pot with a saucer.

If remembering to empty the saucer is difficult, consider pot feet or small bricks that raise the pot above the saucer and prevent the drainage holes from ever being submerged, even if water collects in the saucer.

Troubleshooting: Common Pot-Related Problems

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best pot for a monstera?

For most growers in most situations, terracotta is the best pot for a monstera because its porosity creates a faster-drying soil environment that reduces the risk of root rot and provides a visual watering indicator.

For growers who consistently underwater, or who want a specific decorative aesthetic, glazed ceramic with good drainage holes and careful watering management is an excellent alternative.

Plastic is the best choice where mobility matters, particularly for plants moved outdoors in summer or rotated regularly.

The right pot for you depends on your watering habits, your home’s conditions, and where the plant will live.

Do monsteras like terracotta pots?

The monstera does very well in terracotta, particularly because the faster-drying soil environment replicates, to some degree, the freely-draining forest soils the plant evolved in.

The porous walls prevent the soil from staying wet for too long, which is one of the most common causes of monstera health problems in home cultivation.

The weight and stability of terracotta is also an advantage for larger monsteras.

Do monsteras need deep pots?

No.

The monstera’s root system is shallow and horizontal rather than deep, and a pot that matches the width of the root ball with a similar or slightly shallower depth serves the plant better than a very deep pot.

Excessive depth encourages the plant to push roots downward into soil that stays wet and oxygen-depleted at the base, increasing root rot risk.

How often do monsteras need repotting?

Most monsteras need repotting every two to three years in the right-sized pot.

A faster-growing monstera in good conditions with adequate light and consistent watering may need repotting annually.

The signs that it is time to repot are more reliable guides than any fixed schedule: roots at the drainage holes, rapid drying, and slowed growth all indicate that the plant has outgrown its current pot.

Should I repot my monstera when I first buy it?

In most cases, no.

Allow the plant to settle into its new environment for at least one full growing season before repotting.

Repotting immediately after purchase adds transplant stress on top of the stress of relocation.

The exceptions are if the current pot has no drainage holes, if the plant is severely root-bound, or if the potting mix is clearly unsuitable, such as a very dense, moisture-retaining soil in a non-draining pot.

Related Monstera Guides

For a complete picture of monstera care, see our full monstera care guide and our guide to monstera care for beginners in small apartments.

For soil guidance that works alongside your pot choice, see our article on what soil to use for a monstera.

If your plant is already showing signs of stress from poor pot conditions, our guides on how to fix root rot in a monstera, why monstera leaves turn yellow, and how to revive a dying monstera cover the full recovery process.

For guidance on supporting your monstera as it grows, see our articles on moss poles for monstera, how to stake a monstera, and how to train monstera to climb.

If you are dealing with a monstera that has become too large for its space, our guides on how to prune a monstera and how many monsteras in one pot cover your options.

Key Takeaways

Drainage holes are non-negotiable. Every monstera pot must have at least one drainage hole. A pot without drainage is a significant root rot risk regardless of how carefully you water.

Pot size matters more than most people realise. A too-large pot causes persistent wet soil and slow foliage growth. Always choose a pot 5 cm wider than the current root ball, not the largest pot that looks proportionate.

Match the pot material to your watering habits. Terracotta for overwatering tendencies; glazed ceramic or plastic for underwatering tendencies.

Empty the saucer within 15 to 20 minutes of every watering. Standing water in the saucer reintroduces waterlogging at the base of the pot and is one of the most common causes of root rot in otherwise well-managed monstera plants.

Use the nursery pot and cache pot system for decorative pots without holes. This gives you the aesthetic you want without compromising the drainage your monstera’s roots need.

Repot when the plant shows you it needs it, not on a fixed schedule. Roots at the drainage holes, rapid drying, and slowed growth are the reliable signals. The right timing is usually every two to three years.

Terracotta is the best all-round choice for most growers. Its porosity, stability, visual watering indicator, and insulation properties make it the most forgiving and practical material for the widest range of growing situations.