Lipstick Plants (Aeschynanthus radicans) bloom most prolifically in spring and summer, but under consistent indoor conditions it flowers in cycles year-round, with individual blooms lasting two to three weeks and a well-grown plant producing multiple flushes per year.
The three strongest bloom triggers are bright indirect light (12 or more hours daily), temperatures consistently above 65 degrees F, and being slightly root-bound in its pot.
Misting is frequently recommended for this plant but is counterproductive: as an epiphyte with thin foliage, it is susceptible to fungal issues from sustained wet leaves. Use a pebble tray or humidifier instead.
I have grown lipstick plants in my home for several years across two very different light situations: one on a bright east-facing windowsill and one in a darker corner supplemented with a grow light.
The difference in bloom frequency was dramatic. The well-lit plant produced three distinct flowering cycles in a single year.
The darker one barely managed one. Light, more than any other factor, determines whether this plant flowers or just makes leaves.
Understanding the Lipstick Plant: An Epiphyte, Not a Typical Houseplant
Aeschynanthus radicans is native to the tropical rainforests of Southeast Asia, particularly Malaysia and Indonesia, where it grows as an epiphyte on tree branches rather than in the ground.
This distinction matters for care. An epiphyte anchors its roots in leaf litter and bark crevices on tree surfaces, not in deep soil.
Its roots are adapted to excellent drainage, good air circulation, and periods of being moist followed by drying out between rains.
The flower structure is distinctive: individual tubular blooms, typically deep red to orange-red, emerge from dark maroon to black tubular calyxes that closely resemble a tube of lipstick being extended, which is exactly where the common name comes from.
The contrast between the dark calyx and the vivid flower is what makes this plant visually striking.
Understanding its epiphytic nature explains several care points that are often confused: why the soil must be extremely free-draining, why overwatering is the most common cause of non-blooming and decline, and why misting the foliage is not a beneficial practice despite what many guides suggest.
| Toxicity: Lipstick plant is considered non-toxic to cats, dogs, and humans according to the ASPCA. This makes it a good choice for households with pets, though individual animals may have digestive sensitivity to any plant material if they chew on it in large quantities. |
Natural Blooming Season and What Triggers Flowering
In its native Southeast Asian habitat, Aeschynanthus radicans blooms most prolifically during the warm, humid months corresponding to spring and summer in the northern hemisphere.
In the wild, it responds to increasing day length, rising temperatures, and consistent warmth as the primary signals that conditions are favorable for flowering.
Indoors in a US home, these same environmental signals can be created year-round if conditions are right.
Growers with grow lights and climate control often report near-continuous blooming with brief rest periods between flush cycles.
Growers relying on natural light will typically see a primary bloom in late spring, a second flush through summer, and reduced flowering in fall and winter as day length shortens.
The Five Core Bloom Triggers
Understanding what actually causes a lipstick plant to flower, rather than just grow leaves, is the foundation of getting it to bloom reliably.
| Bloom Trigger | Why It Works | Practical Target |
| Bright indirect light | Light is the primary energy source for flower production; insufficient light means the plant produces only vegetative growth | 12 to 14 hours of bright indirect light daily; east or south-facing window, or a full-spectrum grow light on a timer |
| Warm, consistent temperatures | Warmth signals the active growing season; cold or fluctuating temperatures suppress bud formation | 65 to 80 degrees F consistently; night temperatures above 60 degrees F; away from drafts and AC vents |
| Slight root restriction | Being moderately root-bound is a stress signal that triggers reproductive growth; an oversized pot keeps the plant in vegetative mode | A pot that fits the root ball with only about an inch of clearance; do not overpot |
| High phosphorus fertilizing | Phosphorus is directly involved in flower bud development; nitrogen-heavy feeds push leaf growth instead | Switch from balanced 10-10-10 to a bloom-booster formula (10-30-20 or similar) in late spring and summer |
| High humidity | Replicates the tropical rainforest environment; low humidity stresses the plant and suppresses blooming | 50 to 60% relative humidity; pebble tray, humidifier, or grouping plants together |
| The most overlooked trigger: Slight root-binding is the bloom trigger most growers miss. Many people repot their lipstick plant as soon as they see roots near the drainage holes, but a lipstick plant with roots that are snug but not severely cramped is more likely to flower than one with abundant loose soil around its root ball. If your plant is healthy and growing but not blooming, check whether it might actually benefit from a smaller pot before reaching for the fertilizer. |
Why You Should Not Mist a Lipstick Plant
Misting is one of the most commonly recommended care practices for lipstick plants in popular guides, and it is one of the most counterproductive.
The logic behind the recommendation is that this tropical plant likes humidity, so misting must increase humidity.
The problem is that misting raises ambient humidity for only a few minutes, then the water evaporates, and the leaf surfaces are left briefly wet.
For an epiphyte like Aeschynanthus radicans with relatively thin, small leaves that are in close contact with other foliage on a trailing vine, sustained wet leaf surfaces in a warm indoor environment create exactly the conditions that encourage fungal diseases, including botrytis (gray mold) and various leaf spot fungi.
The minimal and temporary humidity benefit does not justify this risk.
More effective and genuinely safe humidity solutions are a pebble tray filled with water positioned below the pot (the pot must sit above the waterline, not in the water), a room humidifier set to maintain 50 to 60% relative humidity, or grouping the plant with other humidity-loving plants to create a shared microclimate.
All three raise ambient humidity consistently without wetting the foliage.
| Do not mist directly onto the foliage or flowers: Water sitting on petals and leaves in warm conditions promotes fungal rot. This is particularly damaging to open flowers, which will brown and drop prematurely if misted. If you want to clean dust off the leaves, wipe gently with a barely damp cloth rather than spraying. |
Seasonal Blooming Guide
| Season | Blooming Likelihood | Key Care Focus | US Notes |
| Spring (March to May) | High; primary bloom period begins | Increase watering frequency as growth accelerates; begin bloom-booster fertilizing; move to brightest window | Growth accelerates noticeably in March; increase light exposure gradually if supplementing with grow lights; watch for spider mites as heat increases |
| Summer (June to August) | Very high; peak flowering season | Maintain consistent moisture; watch humidity in air-conditioned homes; prune after each flush to encourage the next | AC reduces indoor humidity significantly; a humidifier or pebble tray is more important in summer than winter for many US homes |
| Fall (September to November) | Medium; secondary flush possible | Reduce fertilizing from October; maintain light; keep warm | Day length shortening reduces natural bloom triggers; grow light supplementation extends blooming into fall for growers in northern states |
| Winter (December to February) | Low to medium with intervention | Add grow lights if not already using them; keep temps above 65 degrees F; stop fertilizing December through February | Central heating reduces humidity; monitor with a hygrometer; plants near cold windows may drop buds; a cool but not cold rest period of 4 to 6 weeks can actually reset the bloom cycle for spring |
How Long Do Lipstick Plant Blooms Last?
Individual lipstick plant flowers last approximately two to three weeks before fading. However, a single bloom cycle is not just one flower opening and closing.
A healthy plant produces multiple buds from the same calyx cluster, with individual flowers opening in succession over several weeks.
From the first bud opening to the last flower fading in a single cluster, the display can last four to six weeks.
After a flush ends, the plant typically enters a brief rest of two to four weeks before the next cycle begins, during which it produces primarily vegetative growth.
Deadheading spent flower clusters by snipping the stem just above a leaf node as soon as they fade encourages the plant to redirect energy toward forming new buds rather than setting seed.
| Stage | Duration | What Is Happening | Care Action |
| Bud formation | 1 to 2 weeks before opening | Buds form at stem tips; calyxes darkening and elongating | Maintain stable conditions; do not move the plant once buds form; movement causes bud drop |
| Peak bloom | 2 to 3 weeks per individual flower; 4 to 6 weeks for full cluster | Successive flowers opening from the same cluster | Continue regular watering and feeding; avoid misting flowers; deadhead immediately when each individual bloom fades |
| Post-bloom rest | 2 to 4 weeks | Vegetative growth; plant preparing next flush | Snip spent flower stems; maintain feeding schedule; a brief temperature drop of 5 to 10 degrees at night can help reset the bloom cycle |
| Next flush | Begins with new bud formation | Cycle restarts at stem tips | Continue consistent care; a plant that bloomed 2 to 3 times per year is performing well |
| Do not move the plant once buds appear: Lipstick plants are sensitive to positional changes once bud formation has begun. Moving the plant to a different spot, rotating it, or significantly changing its light exposure after buds have set is one of the most common causes of bud drop. Choose the plant’s position before it starts budding and leave it there through the entire bloom cycle. |
How to Encourage a Lipstick Plant to Bloom: Step by Step
1. Light: The Primary Requirement
Bright indirect light is non-negotiable for reliable blooming. A lipstick plant that does not receive enough light will grow, produce leaves, and look healthy while never flowering.
The minimum for bloom production is approximately 12 hours of bright indirect light per day during the growing season.
The best natural light positions are an east-facing window (gentle morning sun followed by indirect light for the rest of the day) or a south-facing window set back two to three feet with a sheer curtain to filter the most intense midday light.
A west-facing window can work but afternoon sun in summer may be intense enough to cause leaf scorch on a trailing vine without adequate filtering.
For growers without a suitable natural light position, a full-spectrum LED grow light running 12 to 14 hours per day on a timer produces excellent results.
This is also the most reliable solution for maintaining bloom cycles through winter in northern US states where natural light drops too low to sustain flowering from October through February.
2. Watering: Getting the Balance Right for an Epiphyte
Because Aeschynanthus radicans is an epiphyte, its roots are adapted to a wet-dry cycle rather than consistently moist conditions.
The correct approach is to water thoroughly when the top inch to inch and a half of the growing medium feels dry, then allow the medium to approach dryness again before the next watering.
In a well-draining epiphyte mix in a pot with good drainage, this typically means watering every five to seven days in summer and every ten to fourteen days in winter.
Overwatering is the single most common reason a healthy-looking lipstick plant fails to bloom.
A plant with consistently wet roots shifts its energy away from flower production and into stress response. Yellow leaves and no blooms together almost always indicate overwatering.
Underwatering is less common but also suppresses blooming. A plant that is too dry will drop buds before they open.
The correct range is consistently moist but never sodden, with proper drying between waterings.
| Root rot is silent until advanced: By the time a lipstick plant shows obvious symptoms of root rot, including yellowing leaves, stem softening at the base, and a foul smell from the pot, the root system may already be severely damaged. Check the roots every time you repot by gently removing the plant from the pot. Healthy roots are white to pale tan. Brown, black, or mushy roots need to be trimmed back to healthy tissue and repotted in fresh mix. |
3. The Right Growing Medium
Standard potting compost is too moisture-retentive and too dense for a lipstick plant.
An epiphyte mix should drain rapidly while retaining just enough moisture to support root health. A suitable home mix is:
- 50% peat-free compost or coco coir
- 30% perlite
- 20% medium orchid bark
This combination drains quickly enough to prevent the root rot that suppresses blooming, while retaining adequate moisture between waterings.
An off-the-shelf orchid potting mix blended with extra perlite is a practical alternative if you do not want to mix your own.
4. Fertilizing for Flowers
A balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) supports overall plant health and leaf production through spring and early summer.
From late spring through the peak bloom period, switching to a high-phosphorus bloom booster formula (such as 10-30-20) directly supports flower bud development.
Phosphorus is the nutrient most directly involved in reproductive growth.
| Fertilizer Type | When to Use | Dilution | Purpose |
| Balanced (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) | March to May; early growing season | Half the package-recommended strength | General growth support; building healthy stems that will carry flower buds |
| Bloom booster (10-30-20 or similar) | May through August; peak blooming season | Half strength every 2 to 3 weeks | Stimulating and sustaining flower bud formation |
| None | September through February; rest period | N/A | Plant needs a nutritional rest; feeding in fall and winter pushes weak vegetative growth without producing blooms and can accumulate damaging salt deposits in the root zone |
| Salt buildup from over-fertilizing: The most visible sign of fertilizer salt buildup is a white crusty deposit on the soil surface or around the drainage holes. Flush the medium monthly during the growing season by watering slowly and thoroughly with plain water until a significant volume drains from the bottom, carrying accumulated salts with it. Brown leaf tips accompanied by otherwise healthy growth is another common sign of salt buildup. |
5. Temperature and the Night Temperature Drop
Lipstick plants bloom in response to warm temperatures, but a brief cool period can actually help reset the bloom cycle after a flush.
A night temperature that drops 5 to 10 degrees F below the daytime temperature, such as 65 to 70 degrees F at night against 75 to 80 degrees F during the day, more closely mimics natural tropical conditions and can trigger a new flush after a rest period.
The minimum temperature for active bloom production is 65 degrees F. Below 60 degrees F, the plant shifts into a semi-dormant state and will not flower.
Exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees F causes visible leaf damage and can permanently set back flowering for several months.
6. Pruning to Promote the Next Flush
Pruning is the most underused bloom-promotion technique for this plant. New flower buds form at the tips of new growth, not on existing old wood.
A plant with long, bare, trailing vines that have flowered once and not been pruned will produce few new blooms because there are few new growing tips to set buds.
After each flush ends, cut the spent flower stems and any noticeably long, bare stems back by one third to one half, cutting just above a leaf node.
This single action does three things: it removes spent growth, it stimulates multiple new lateral shoots from below the cut (each of which is a potential future flowering tip), and it keeps the plant bushy and full rather than producing increasingly long bare stems.
Pinching the growing tips of young stems before they flower encourages branching and produces a plant with more shoot tips and therefore more potential bloom sites over time.
Do this on new growth in spring rather than immediately before or during a bloom cycle.
Why Is My Lipstick Plant Not Blooming? Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause | Fix |
| Healthy leaves, vigorous growth, no flowers at all | Insufficient light; this is the most common cause of non-blooming in an otherwise healthy plant | Move to a significantly brighter position or add a grow light running 12 to 14 hours daily; give the plant 4 to 6 weeks to respond |
| Plant was blooming, then stopped and has not restarted | Natural post-bloom rest; or buds forming but dropping before opening due to positional change or low humidity | Wait 2 to 4 weeks after last flush; deadhead spent stems; check that the plant has not been moved; check humidity |
| Yellow leaves, no blooms, soil stays wet | Overwatering; roots cannot support bloom production when they are under water stress | Let the medium dry out significantly; check roots for rot; repot in better-draining mix if needed; reduce watering frequency |
| Buds form but fall off before opening | Positional change; cold draft; low humidity; sudden temperature change | Do not move the plant once buds have set; keep away from cold windows and AC vents; increase humidity to 50 to 60% |
| Very long bare stems with leaves only at tips | Plant needs pruning; old wood does not produce flowers | Cut stems back by one third to one half above a leaf node; the new growth will be more compact and will flower more readily |
| Good light and watering, fed regularly, still not blooming | Pot may be too large; nitrogen-heavy fertilizer pushing vegetative growth; no rest period | Check pot size; if roots are loose and the soil holds moisture, try a smaller pot; switch to a bloom-booster fertilizer; ensure plant gets a light nutritional rest in winter |
| Blooms appearing but fading within days rather than weeks | Misting directly on flowers; too much direct sun scorching petals; low humidity drying petals | Stop misting; filter direct sun; increase humidity; flowers should last 2 to 3 weeks under good conditions |
Cultivar Guide: Which Variety to Choose
Most care guidance applies equally to all common lipstick plant cultivars.
However, there are some meaningful differences in bloom frequency, flower color, and foliage that are worth knowing before buying.
| Cultivar | Flower Color | Notable Feature | Bloom Habit |
| Standard Aeschynanthus radicans | Deep red to orange-red | The most widely available form; classic lipstick tube flower structure | Reliable spring and summer bloomer; 2 to 3 flushes per year under good conditions |
| Mona Lisa | Orange to red; large flowers | Known for consistently large blooms and a longer individual flower lifespan than the standard form; widely available | One of the most prolific indoor bloomers; good choice for beginners wanting reliable flowers |
| Rasta | Red; curly, twisted foliage | Foliage is the main distinguishing feature: leaves are tightly curled and wavy, giving the trailing vine a very different texture | Blooms reliably; the same care as standard; curly leaves collect dust more easily and benefit from occasional gentle cleaning |
| Cassiopeia | Rich red; slightly smaller flowers | Compact growth habit; flowers freely over an extended season with slightly shorter rest periods between flushes | Good for smaller spaces; one of the best choices for consistent year-round flowering indoors |
| Japhrolepis | Yellow to orange; unusual for the genus | Unusual flower color; slightly more difficult to find but worth seeking out for growers who want variety | Same bloom triggers; requires identical care; can be slightly more sensitive to overwatering than red-flowered forms |
| Tanager | Brilliant orange-red | Very vivid flower color; popular in hanging baskets | Free-blooming; good light response; among the more reliably flowering cultivars |
Complete Seasonal Care Calendar
| Month | Blooming Status | Care Actions |
| January to February | Rest period; low to no blooming | No fertilizing; water sparingly (every 10 to 14 days); maintain minimum 65 degrees F; grow lights if natural light is low; this is the best time to prune back long bare stems |
| March | Buds forming; growth resuming | Resume watering as growth picks up; begin feeding with balanced fertilizer at half strength; check for pests on new growth; move to brightest window or increase grow light hours |
| April to May | Primary bloom beginning | Switch to bloom-booster fertilizer; water regularly when top inch is dry; do not move the plant once buds appear; deadhead spent flowers promptly |
| June to August | Peak bloom season | Maintain consistent moisture and feeding; check humidity in air-conditioned rooms; prune after each flush to stimulate new branching; watch for spider mites in dry summer air |
| September | Secondary bloom possible | Reduce feeding gradually; maintain light; a second flush often begins if conditions have been consistent through summer |
| October to November | Bloom frequency reducing | Stop fertilizing by end of October; maintain warmth; introduce grow lights as natural day length shortens; prune lightly if stems are very bare |
| December | Rest period beginning | No fertilizing; reduce watering; maintain minimum temperature; a brief cooler rest period of 4 to 6 weeks helps reset the bloom cycle for spring |
Frequently Asked Questions
How many times a year does a lipstick plant bloom?
Under good indoor conditions with adequate light, a lipstick plant typically produces two to three bloom flushes per year.
Growers using full-spectrum grow lights on a timer often achieve three to four flushes.
The key variables are light intensity and duration, temperature consistency, and whether the plant receives a brief nutritional rest in winter.
A plant producing one flush per year in early spring is receiving adequate but not optimal conditions.
A plant producing no blooms at all despite healthy foliage almost certainly needs more light.
My lipstick plant has lots of leaves but never blooms. What is wrong?
Abundant healthy foliage with no flowers is the classic sign of a plant that is receiving enough light to grow but not enough to flower.
Light is the primary bloom trigger. Move the plant to the brightest indirect position you have, within one to two feet of an east or south-facing window, or add a full-spectrum grow light running 12 to 14 hours daily.
Give it four to six weeks to respond before concluding the light is adequate.
The second check is pot size: a plant in a pot that is significantly too large for its root system stays in vegetative mode because the loose, moist soil around the roots continuously signals favorable growth conditions without the slight restriction that triggers reproductive growth.
Why are my lipstick plant buds falling off before they open?
Bud drop before opening is almost always caused by one of four things: moving the plant after buds have set (the most common cause), a cold draft or sudden temperature change reaching the plant, humidity dropping below 40% causing the buds to desiccate, or overwatering causing root stress.
Choose the plant’s position before it starts budding and leave it there through the bloom cycle.
If buds are forming and dropping consistently without ever opening, check the temperature near the plant (particularly from windows or AC vents), check the humidity with a hygrometer, and verify your watering rhythm is allowing some drying between waterings.
Should I repot my lipstick plant to get it to bloom more?
The counterintuitive answer is often no. A lipstick plant that is blooming well should not be repotted; disturbing a healthy, bloom-productive plant can set back flowering for a full season.
A lipstick plant that is not blooming and has become severely root-bound, with roots circling the base or pushing from drainage holes, may benefit from moving up one pot size.
But a plant that is only slightly root-bound and otherwise healthy is often in its ideal blooming state.
Repot only when the root binding is clearly severe, and go up only one pot size to avoid creating the oversized-pot problem that suppresses blooming.
Can I grow a lipstick plant outdoors?
In USDA zones 10 to 12, Aeschynanthus radicans can be grown outdoors year-round in a sheltered position with bright indirect light and protection from direct afternoon sun.
In zones 9 and below, it is a houseplant only; temperatures below 50 degrees F cause leaf damage and kill the plant if sustained.
Outdoor summer placement in zones 5 to 9 is possible from late May through early September as long as temperatures remain above 60 degrees F at night, but the plant must be moved back inside before any risk of cool nights.
When bringing any plant back indoors from summer outdoor placement, inspect every stem and leaf carefully for pests before placing it near other houseplants.
How do I get a lipstick plant to bloom in winter?
A brief rest in winter, with no feeding and reduced watering, followed by a gradual increase in light, warmth, and feeding as late winter approaches, is the most reliable way to trigger a strong spring bloom.
To extend flowering into winter, grow lights running 12 to 14 hours per day on a timer are the most effective tool.
Maintain night temperatures above 65 degrees F, humidity at 50 to 60%, and consistent moisture (but not overwatering).
A plant that has never had a rest period may benefit from a deliberate 4 to 6 week cool-down and reduced watering in early winter to reset the bloom cycle.
Is it normal for the flowers to look like lipstick tubes?
Yes, and this is exactly what gives the plant its common name.
The tubular calyx (the dark maroon to near-black outer structure) remains after the flower falls and then produces the next flower in the same site.
When a bud begins to emerge from the calyx before the previous flower has fully opened, the elongating tube of the flower emerging from the darker calyx looks almost exactly like a lipstick tube being extended.
This is most visible on Aeschynanthus radicans and differs from some other species in the genus that have green or lighter calyxes.
Quick Care Reference
| Care Factor | Requirement | Notes |
| Light | Bright indirect; 12 to 14 hours daily for best blooming | East or south-facing window; grow light on timer if natural light is inadequate; most common reason for non-blooming is insufficient light |
| Watering | When top inch to inch and a half is dry; thorough until drainage; let dry between waterings | Never let sit in water; epiphyte roots need air around them; overwatering is the most common cause of decline |
| Humidity | 50 to 60% | Pebble tray or humidifier; do not mist foliage or flowers directly |
| Temperature | 65 to 80 degrees F; above 60 degrees F at minimum | Keep away from cold drafts, AC vents, and cold windows; temperatures below 50 degrees F cause permanent damage |
| Fertilizer | Half-strength balanced in spring; switch to bloom booster in late spring through summer; nothing in fall and winter | Salt buildup from overfertilizing causes brown leaf tips; flush soil monthly during growing season |
| Soil | Free-draining epiphyte mix; 50% coco coir, 30% perlite, 20% orchid bark or similar | Standard potting compost is too moisture-retentive; use or blend an orchid mix |
| Pot size | Snug fit; roots should have about an inch of clearance in the pot | Slightly root-bound = better blooming; oversized pot = vegetative growth with no flowers |
| Pruning | After each bloom flush; cut stems back one third to one half above a leaf node | New growth from pruning cuts becomes the next bloom site; long bare stems do not reflower |
| Repotting | Every 2 to 3 years; spring only; go up one size at a time | Do not repot a blooming plant; do not repot a slightly root-bound plant that is blooming well |
| Toxicity | Non-toxic to cats, dogs, and humans (ASPCA) | Ingestion in large quantities may cause mild digestive upset in any animal; fertilizer in saucers can be harmful to pets |
Final Thoughts
The lipstick plant is one of the most rewarding flowering houseplants available for indoor growing, but it does not bloom automatically.
It flowers in response to specific conditions, and understanding which conditions matter most makes the difference between a plant that produces a reliable annual display and one that sits producing only leaves.
The most important thing I tell anyone who asks why their lipstick plant is not blooming is to look honestly at the light.
In four out of five cases, the plant is in a position that is adequate for survival but not bright enough or long enough in duration for flower production.
Move it closer to a window, add a grow light, or extend the hours it receives bright light, and most non-blooming plants will respond within four to six weeks.
The second thing worth remembering is that this is an epiphyte. T
reat it like a slightly drought-tolerant plant that needs excellent drainage and genuine drying between waterings, use an open, free-draining mix, keep it in a slightly snug pot, and avoid the reflex to mist it.
Those three adjustments remove the most common structural causes of both poor health and poor flowering simultaneously.
| What to do right now: Look at where your lipstick plant is sitting. Count the hours of genuinely bright light it receives on a typical day, not just the hours the room is light, but the hours it is in bright light that would cast a soft shadow on a white piece of paper. If that number is below 12, that is your starting point. Move the plant, adjust the grow light, or extend the timer. Light is the answer to most lipstick plant non-blooming problems. |
Hi, I'm Matt,
An amateur gardener with a houseplant habit that got slightly out of hand.
I started Bean Growing to share what I've learned from a few years of trial, error, and the occasional dead plant.
I grow a mix of houseplants and outdoor shrubs in the UK but try to expand my knowledge to the US. I try to write about what actually works