To care for a Aeschynanthus radicans (lipstick plant), it needs bright indirect light for at least 12 hours daily, watering when the top inch to inch and a half of the growing medium is dry, humidity maintained at 50 to 60% with a pebble tray or humidifier (not by misting, which promotes fungal leaf spot on this plant), and temperatures consistently above 60 degrees F (15 degrees C).
It is an epiphyte, meaning its roots need excellent aeration and drainage rather than dense moisture-retentive soil.
Under these conditions it blooms in cycles from spring through autumn and is a low-maintenance, long-lived houseplant that rewards consistent care with striking red tubular flowers.
I have grown lipstick plants for several years in different light conditions and the single most consistent lesson is that people underestimate how much light this plant needs to bloom reliably.
It will survive in moderate light and produce good foliage, but for the cascading red flowers it is known for, it genuinely needs to be near a bright window or under a grow light.
Move it to the best light spot in your home and most other care questions resolve themselves.
Quick Care Reference
| Care Factor | Requirement | Common Mistake |
| Light | Bright indirect light; 12 to 14 hours daily for reliable blooming; east or west-facing window preferred | Too little light; plant survives but rarely blooms in a position more than 3 feet from a bright window |
| Watering | When top 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) of growing medium are dry; water thoroughly until drainage runs free; never let sit in water | Watering on a fixed weekly schedule without testing the medium; both overwatering and underwatering suppress blooming |
| Humidity | 50 to 60% relative humidity; pebble tray or humidifier; never mist foliage directly | Misting: raises humidity for minutes only, leaves wet foliage that encourages fungal leaf spot |
| Temperature | 65 to 85 degrees F (18 to 29 degrees C) daytime; minimum 60 degrees F (15 degrees C) at night | Cold drafts near windows in winter; proximity to heating vents in winter which creates dry hot air |
| Soil | Fast-draining epiphyte mix: 50% coco coir, 30% perlite, 20% orchid bark; never dense moisture-retentive compost | Standard all-purpose potting compost; holds too much moisture and compacts; root rot risk significantly higher |
| Fertilizing | Half-strength balanced liquid fertilizer every 2 to 4 weeks spring through early autumn; none in winter | Over-fertilizing with high nitrogen in winter; skipping fertilizer entirely during the growing season |
| Pot | Small to moderately sized with drainage holes; terracotta or plastic; 1 to 2 inches larger than root ball when repotting | Oversized pot; excess soil holds moisture the root system cannot use; increases root rot risk |
| Repotting | Every 2 to 3 years or when roots emerge from drainage holes; spring preferred | Repotting into too large a pot; repotting mid-winter when growth is slow |
| Pruning | After each flush of flowers; cut stems back by one-third above a leaf node | Not pruning at all; plant becomes leggy with bare stems that do not reflower |
| Toxicity | Non-toxic to cats, dogs, and humans (ASPCA) | N/A; safe to grow in pet households |
| UK growing note: In the UK, lipstick plant is grown exclusively as a houseplant or conservatory specimen. The primary care challenge for UK growers is winter light: UK indoor light levels from October through March are insufficient for active growth and blooming even in a south-facing room in most cases. A full-spectrum LED grow light on a timer (12 to 14 hours daily) is close to essential for UK growers wanting reliable flowering year-round rather than a single summer flush. Grow lights are widely available from UK garden centres and online retailers at a range of price points. |
Light: The Primary Requirement for Blooming
Aeschynanthus radicans is a rainforest epiphyte native to Southeast Asia, where it grows on tree branches in the forest canopy receiving bright, filtered light for most of the day.
This light intensity is significantly higher than the light level in most indoor rooms, which is why plants placed in typical room positions grow leaves but rarely bloom.
For consistent flowering, the plant needs a minimum of 12 hours of bright indirect light daily during the growing season.
In practice this means a position within 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) of an east or west-facing window, or set back from a south-facing window with a sheer curtain to filter the most intense midday light.
Direct, unfiltered afternoon sun from a south-facing window can scorch the leaves and damage the flower bracts.
| Window Position | Suitability | Notes |
| East-facing | Excellent | Morning sun followed by indirect light; rarely intense enough to scorch; the best natural light position for this plant in most US and UK homes |
| West-facing | Good | Afternoon sun; effective for blooming; use a sheer curtain in summer when afternoon sun is more intense |
| South-facing | Good with management | Brightest position overall; move 2 to 3 feet back from the glass or add a sheer curtain; best position in winter when sun angle is lower |
| North-facing | Poor for flowering | Adequate for foliage health; rarely provides sufficient intensity for reliable bloom production; grow light supplementation essential |
In the US, growers in northern states (zones 5 to 7) will find that natural light from October through February is often insufficient for active blooming even in a south-facing window; supplemental grow lighting during this period significantly extends the flowering season.
In the UK, this is true across virtually all of the country from October through March.
A full-spectrum LED grow light positioned 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) above the plant, running 12 to 14 hours daily on a timer, effectively replaces inadequate natural light.
This is the most reliable solution for apartment growers, north-facing rooms, and UK growers through the winter months.
| Signs the light level needs adjusting: Stretching or leggy stems reaching toward the window, new leaves smaller than established leaves, and the plant producing foliage but no flower buds despite correct watering and fertilizing all indicate insufficient light. Pale or bleached patches on leaves concentrated on the side facing the window indicate too much direct sun. |
Watering: Getting the Balance Right for an Epiphyte
Because Aeschynanthus radicans grows naturally as an epiphyte on tree bark rather than in soil, its roots are adapted to periods of drying out between rainfall.
It is significantly more drought-tolerant than its lush appearance suggests, and far more susceptible to overwatering than underwatering.
This is the most important difference between this plant and typical moisture-loving houseplants.
The Correct Watering Approach
Water when the top 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) of the growing medium feel dry to the touch.
Push a finger to that depth: if it feels clearly dry, water thoroughly until water drains freely from the base.
If it still feels slightly damp, wait another day and test again. Empty the saucer within 30 minutes of watering; never leave the plant sitting in standing water.
In practice this typically means watering every 5 to 7 days during active growth in spring and summer, and every 10 to 14 days in autumn and winter when growth slows.
These are approximate starting points; the actual interval depends on your home temperature, pot size and material, and the season.
| Season | Approximate Frequency | Key Consideration |
| Spring (March to May in US; April to June in UK) | Every 5 to 7 days | Growth accelerating; increase frequency gradually as warmth builds; do not increase before growth resumes |
| Summer (June to August) | Every 5 to 7 days; possibly more frequent in very warm conditions | Check medium every 3 to 4 days in hot weather; large pots in direct sun may dry faster than expected |
| Autumn (September to November) | Every 7 to 10 days | Reduce frequency as growth slows; UK growers reduce sooner (from September) than southern US growers |
| Winter (December to February) | Every 10 to 14 days | Minimum watering; no fertilizer; allow slightly more drying between waterings without letting the medium dry out completely |
| Overwatering is the most common cause of decline: A lipstick plant with yellowing leaves, soft stems, and soil that has been consistently wet is almost certainly being overwatered. Root rot in this species progresses silently until the stems at soil level feel soft. If this occurs, remove the plant from its pot, trim all brown or soft root tissue back to firm healthy tissue, dust cut surfaces with cinnamon or activated charcoal, and repot in fresh dry medium. Resume watering at a significantly reduced frequency. |
Water Quality
Lipstick plant is sensitive to fluoride and the mineral salts in hard tap water, which accumulate in leaf tissue over time and cause progressive brown tip development.
The most effective solution is to use filtered, distilled, or collected rainwater.
Leaving tap water overnight to off-gas is not a reliable approach for most US or UK tap water, which is now treated with chloramine rather than chlorine; chloramine does not evaporate regardless of standing time.
Carbon filter pitchers (Brita and equivalents, available in both the US and UK) remove chloramine effectively.
Humidity: What Works and What Does Not
Lipstick plant prefers 50 to 60% relative humidity, reflecting its tropical rainforest origin.
In most US and UK homes during the winter heating season, indoor humidity typically drops to 30 to 40%, which is noticeably below this range and contributes to brown leaf tips even when watering is correct.
Effective Humidity Solutions
- Room humidifier: The most reliable method. A small cool-mist humidifier positioned near the plant, set to maintain 50 to 60% humidity, raises ambient humidity consistently rather than temporarily. This is particularly beneficial in UK homes during the long central heating season from October through April, and in any US home in a dry climate or during winter.
- Pebble tray: Fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water; sit the pot on top of the pebbles so the base of the pot is above the waterline (never in the water). As the water evaporates it raises local humidity around the plant. Less effective than a humidifier but a practical low-cost option.
- Grouping plants: Plants collectively transpire and raise the local humidity in the area around them. Grouping the lipstick plant with two or three other humidity-loving plants provides a modest but real benefit.
| Do not mist this plant: Misting is frequently recommended for tropical plants as a humidity solution. For lipstick plant it is counterproductive. The thin foliage and dense leaf arrangement on the trailing vines means moisture sits on leaf surfaces in warm indoor conditions, creating ideal conditions for fungal leaf spot diseases such as Botrytis. The humidity benefit from misting lasts only a few minutes. Use a pebble tray or humidifier instead; both provide lasting benefit without the fungal risk. |
Temperature: Stable and Warm
Lipstick plant grows best in temperatures of 65 to 85 degrees F (18 to 29 degrees C) and should never be exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
The critical figure to remember is the night minimum: keeping the plant above 60 degrees F (15 degrees C) overnight is necessary to prevent stress and bud drop.
| Temperature Situation | Effect on Plant | Action |
| 65 to 85 degrees F (18 to 29 degrees C) | Ideal range; active growth; good blooming conditions | No action needed; maintain consistent conditions |
| 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C) | Acceptable; slightly slower growth; cooler nights in this range can actually help trigger the next bloom cycle after a flush | Acceptable for short periods; avoid prolonged stays at the lower end |
| 50 to 60 degrees F (10 to 15 degrees C) | Growth stops; plant enters a cool rest; acceptable for winter storage but not ideal for active growth or blooming | Reduce watering; stop feeding; ensure the plant is not near a cold window |
| Below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) | Leaf damage; bud drop; potential chill injury to stems | Move plant immediately; do not leave in conservatories or near single-glazed windows in UK winters |
| Near heating vents or radiators | Dry heat stress; rapid dehydration of leaf tissue; brown tips; bud drop | Keep at least 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm) from any heat source; heating vent air is both very dry and very warm, the worst combination for this plant |
| UK winter placement: In the UK, single-glazed windows and poorly insulated conservatories can expose plants to temperatures well below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) on cold nights even while the rest of the room is warm. A lipstick plant placed close to cold glass in December or January in the UK is at genuine risk of cold injury to its leaves and roots. Move the pot at least 12 inches (30 cm) away from the glass surface when night temperatures are forecast below 5 degrees C (41 degrees F). |
Soil: Why Standard Potting Compost Does Not Work
As a rainforest epiphyte, Aeschynanthus radicans anchors its roots in organic debris in tree forks and bark crevices, not in dense soil. Its roots need excellent aeration alongside moisture retention.
Standard all-purpose potting compost is too dense and moisture-retentive for this plant: it compacts over time, reduces root-zone oxygen, and significantly increases the risk of root rot.
Recommended Potting Mix
- 50% coco coir (the standard peat-free moisture-retaining base; widely available in both the US and UK)
- 30% perlite (drainage and aeration; the single most important amendment)
- 20% medium orchid bark (creates air pockets; mimics the plant’s natural tree-bark growing environment)
Pre-mixed orchid potting mix blended with an equal volume of perlite is a good commercial shortcut. African violet mix with added perlite also works well.
The goal is a medium that drains fast enough that water does not pool, retains enough moisture for root health, and provides abundant air space.
| Coco coir vs peat moss: Coco coir is the preferred choice over peat moss for the moisture-retention component of the mix. It is a renewable byproduct of coconut processing, widely available in both the US and UK, and performs identically to peat as a moisture-retaining growing medium. The UK is further along the peat-free transition than the US; coco coir is now the standard choice in most UK garden centres and is readily available at comparable prices to peat-based alternatives in both countries. |
Repotting: When, How, and What Size Pot
Lipstick plant is relatively comfortable in a slightly snug pot.
Being moderately root-bound actually triggers bloom production in some epiphytic plants; moving the plant into a significantly oversized pot creates excess growing medium that holds moisture far longer than the root system can use, increasing root rot risk.
The correct approach is to repot into a pot only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) larger in diameter.
Signs It Is Time to Repot
- Roots circling the inside of the pot or emerging from drainage holes
- Water running straight through the pot without being absorbed, indicating the root mass has displaced most of the growing medium
- Growth has stalled during the growing season despite correct light, water, and feeding
- Growing medium drying out within a day or two of watering
Step-by-Step Repotting
- Water the plant the day before to soften the root ball and reduce stress during removal
- Gently remove the plant from its current pot by squeezing the sides if plastic, or running a blunt knife around the inside edge if terracotta
- Inspect the roots. Healthy roots are white to pale tan and firm. Trim any brown, soft, or mushy roots back to healthy tissue using sterilized scissors
- Loosen the outer root mass gently with your fingers to encourage roots to grow outward into the fresh medium
- Place a small amount of fresh mix in the base of the new pot, position the plant, and fill around the sides, pressing gently
- Water thoroughly until drainage runs from the base. Place in its usual light position
- Do not fertilize for 4 to 6 weeks after repotting; the root system needs time to establish before processing added nutrients
| Best time to repot: Spring, just as growth resumes, is ideal. The plant’s natural growth momentum at this time means it recovers quickly and establishes roots in the new medium before the main growing season begins. Avoid repotting in winter when growth is slow and the plant is at its least resilient, and avoid repotting a plant that is actively in flower. |
Fertilizing for Growth and Blooms
Lipstick plant is a moderate feeder that responds well to consistent nutrition during the growing season but should not be fed at all in winter.
The type of fertilizer matters at different points in the growing season.
| Period | Fertilizer Type | Frequency | Purpose |
| Early spring (March to May in US; April to June in UK) | Balanced liquid fertilizer: 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 at half the package-recommended strength | Every 3 to 4 weeks | Supporting overall plant health and new leaf growth as growth resumes |
| Late spring through summer (peak growing season) | Balanced or slightly higher phosphorus formula (10-30-10 or similar bloom booster) | Every 2 to 4 weeks | Supporting flower bud development; phosphorus is directly involved in reproductive growth |
| Early autumn (September to October) | Reduce to balanced formula at half strength | Every 4 weeks then stop | Tapering off feeding before winter rest; do not continue into November |
| Winter (November to February) | None | N/A | Plant is resting; feeding accumulates as salt in the root zone without producing growth benefit; resume in spring |
Always dilute liquid fertilizer to half the recommended strength. Lipstick plant roots are relatively fine and can be burned by full-strength applications.
If the leaf tips begin browning and the water quality is already addressed, excess fertilizer salt accumulation is the likely cause: flush the pot with plain water several times to leach accumulated salts before resuming feeding.
Pruning and Propagation
Pruning for Bushiness and Blooms
New flower buds form at the tips of new growth. A lipstick plant that has not been pruned develops increasingly long, bare stems with flowers only at the very tips, producing a sparse rather than lush display.
Regular pruning after each bloom flush encourages branching and multiplies the number of growing tips, each of which is a potential future bloom site.
- When to prune: After each flush of flowers as the last blooms fade. The best structural pruning session of the year is late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
- How much to remove: Cut stems back by one-third to one-half above a leaf node (the point where a leaf emerges). Each cut will stimulate new lateral shoots from below the cut. Do not remove more than one-third of the total plant at once.
- Pinching tips: On young plants or new growth, pinching out the very growing tip (the last pair of leaves on a stem) before it flowers encourages the stem to branch and produce two growing tips instead of one, building a bushier plant over time.
- Tool hygiene: Always use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Wipe the blades with 70% isopropyl alcohol between plants to prevent transferring fungal spores.
Propagation from Stem Cuttings
Lipstick plant propagates readily from stem cuttings and is one of the most beginner-friendly plants to propagate. The cuttings root in 2 to 4 weeks under good conditions.
| Step | Water Method | Soil Method |
| Take the cutting | Select a healthy stem with at least 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of length and 3 to 4 leaf nodes; cut cleanly just below a node with sterilized scissors | Same cutting preparation |
| Prepare the cutting | Remove the lowest two pairs of leaves, leaving 2 to 3 pairs at the top; at least one node must be submerged in water | Remove lowest leaves as with water method; dip cut end in rooting hormone powder (optional but speeds rooting) |
| Root the cutting | Place in a glass of clean water with at least one node submerged; keep in bright indirect light; change water every 3 to 5 days | Plant in a small pot of the standard epiphyte mix; water lightly; cover with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity; remove for 30 minutes daily |
| Timing | Roots typically appear in 2 to 4 weeks | Roots typically form in 3 to 5 weeks; less visible than water method |
| Pot on | Once roots are 0.5 to 1 inch (1.5 to 2.5 cm) long, pot into the standard mix | Remove the plastic bag once new growth confirms rooting; treat as an established plant |
| Pot multiple cuttings together: For an immediately full-looking hanging basket or pot, take 3 to 5 cuttings simultaneously and plant them all in the same container once rooted. Commercial growers produce their full, bushy specimens by planting multiple cuttings together from the start. A single cutting produces a sparse plant; three to five cuttings in the same pot produces the lush, cascading display the plant is known for. |
Varieties: A Brief Guide to the Main Cultivars
Most care guidance applies equally across all Aeschynanthus cultivars. The differences are primarily aesthetic: flower color, foliage texture, and growth habit.
All varieties have essentially the same light, water, temperature, and soil requirements.
| Variety | Key Features | Notes |
| Aeschynanthus radicans (standard) | Classic form; bright red tubular flowers from dark maroon calyxes; glossy green leaves | The most widely available form in both US and UK garden centres; reliable and beginner-friendly |
| Mona Lisa | Red to orange-red flowers; known for reliable and prolific blooming; slightly longer individual flower lifespan than the standard form | One of the best choices for beginners prioritizing flowers over foliage interest |
| Rasta (Curly) | Dramatically curled, twisted foliage; red flowers; compact and cascading | The foliage is the main draw; care identical to standard; leaves collect dust more readily and benefit from occasional gentle cleaning |
| Black Pagoda (A. longicaulis) | Deep green leaves with purple-maroon undersides and mottled surface pattern; greenish-yellow flowers; grown primarily for foliage | More tolerant of lower light than red-flowered varieties; good choice for positions that are too dim for reliable red-flower production |
| Tangerine | Orange-red flowers; slightly more upright growth than standard; vivid color contrast against foliage | Same care; the orange flower tone distinguishes it visually; less widely available than Mona Lisa or standard form |
| Aeschynanthus speciosus | Large orange to red flowers; large leathery leaves; more vigorous and spreading than standard varieties | More space needed; care requirements the same but growth is more substantial; better suited to experienced growers with room for a larger specimen |
Troubleshooting: Common Problems and Fixes
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause | Fix |
| Yellow leaves; soil consistently wet; stem soft at base | Overwatering; root rot developing | Stop watering; allow to dry significantly; check roots; if rotted, trim to healthy tissue, dust with cinnamon, repot in fresh mix |
| Brown leaf tips; otherwise healthy growth | Fluoride or mineral salt buildup from hard tap water; or proximity to a heating or cooling vent | Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater; flush pot with plain water to leach salts; move away from any vent |
| Drooping, wilting; soil bone dry; pot feels light | Underwatering; medium may be hydrophobic | Water thoroughly; if water runs off without soaking in, bottom-water in a basin for 20 minutes to rehydrate the medium |
| Healthy foliage; no flowers despite good care | Insufficient light; or no winter rest period; or pot too large suppressing bloom trigger | Move to brightest indirect position; add grow light; ensure plant had a period of reduced watering and cooler temperatures in winter; check pot is not oversized |
| Flower buds forming then dropping before opening | Sudden temperature change; drafts; low humidity; plant moved after budding | Do not move the plant once buds form; check for cold drafts; raise humidity with humidifier; ensure minimum 60 degrees F (15 degrees C) at night |
| Leggy, bare stems with leaves only at tips | Insufficient pruning; or insufficient light causing stem elongation | Prune stems back by one-third to one-half above a node; move to brighter position to prevent continued stretching |
| White cottony clusters at leaf junctions or stem joints | Mealybugs | Remove manually with 70% isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab; spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly for 4 to 6 weeks; isolate from other plants |
| Fine webbing on leaf undersides; pale stippled leaves | Spider mites; common in dry indoor conditions | Increase humidity immediately; spray undersides of leaves with water; apply neem oil or insecticidal soap every 3 to 4 days for 2 weeks |
| Clusters of small insects on new growth; sticky coating on leaves and pot | Aphids | Strong water jet to dislodge; neem oil or insecticidal soap treatment; introduce lacewings or ladybirds if available |
| Black spots or soft tissue with mold on leaves or stems | Fungal infection; encouraged by wet foliage or poor air circulation | Remove affected leaves; improve air circulation; do not mist foliage; treat with a copper-based fungicide if widespread |
Why Is My Lipstick Plant Not Blooming?
Non-blooming in an otherwise healthy lipstick plant has five main causes, in rough order of frequency:
- Insufficient light: The most common cause by a significant margin. The plant will grow and look healthy in moderate light but will not produce flowers without bright indirect light for at least 12 hours daily. If your plant is more than 3 feet from a bright window and has no grow light, this is almost certainly the reason. Move it to your brightest position before trying anything else.
- No winter rest: Lipstick plant benefits from a brief cooler, drier rest period in winter (reduced watering, no feeding, slightly cooler temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees F / 15 to 18 degrees C) which helps reset the bloom cycle for spring. A plant that has been kept in identical warm conditions year-round with no seasonal variation may fail to bloom because it lacks this reset trigger.
- Excess nitrogen: High-nitrogen fertilizer applied too generously pushes vigorous leaf growth at the expense of flowering. If the plant is producing abundant healthy leaves but no buds, switch from a balanced fertilizer to a bloom-booster formula with a higher middle number (the phosphorus ratio) such as 10-30-10, and apply at half strength.
- Recently repotted or moved: Transplant stress and environmental change can delay blooming by 6 to 12 weeks. If you have recently repotted or moved the plant, patience is the most appropriate response. Resume normal care and allow the plant to settle.
- Pot too large: A plant in an oversized pot with abundant loose soil may stay in vegetative growth mode rather than triggering the reproductive response that leads to flowering. If the pot is noticeably large relative to the root ball, the plant may benefit from moving to a slightly snug container.
Seasonal Care Calendar
| Season | US Primary Timing | UK Timing | Care Focus |
| Late winter / early spring | February to March | March to April | Resume watering as growth begins; repot if needed; begin light feeding with balanced fertilizer; prune if not done in autumn; set up grow light on timer if not already in use |
| Spring (main growing season) | April to May | May to June | Increase watering frequency as growth accelerates; begin bloom-booster feed once buds form; move to or maintain brightest window; watch for aphids on new growth |
| Summer (peak flowering) | June to August | June to August | Most active growth and bloom period; water when top inch is dry; feed every 2 to 4 weeks; check humidity in air-conditioned rooms; prune after each flush ends to encourage the next |
| Early autumn | September to October | September | Reduce feeding frequency; maintain watering; note any bud drop as temperatures fall; UK growers: set up grow lights from September to extend the growing season |
| Late autumn | October to November | October to November | Stop feeding; reduce watering frequency; keep warm and away from cold drafts; UK growers: grow lights essential; do not allow near cold single-glazed windows |
| Winter | December to February | December to February | Minimal watering; no feeding; maintain minimum 60 degrees F (15 degrees C); brightest available position; grow lights if available; rest period supports next season’s bloom |
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water my lipstick plant?
There is no fixed schedule that works across all conditions. The correct approach is to check the top 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) of the growing medium with your finger before every watering and water only when it feels dry at that depth.
In typical summer conditions this works out to every 5 to 7 days for most people; in winter every 10 to 14 days is common.
Overwatering is more damaging than underwatering for this plant, so when in doubt wait another day.
Should I mist my lipstick plant?
No. Misting raises ambient humidity for only a few minutes and leaves the foliage wet, which in warm indoor conditions encourages fungal diseases including Botrytis leaf spot.
Use a pebble tray or a small humidifier to raise ambient humidity consistently without wetting the leaves.
Both methods provide lasting humidity benefit; misting provides essentially none.
Why are my lipstick plant leaves turning yellow?
Yellow leaves are almost always caused by overwatering. Check the soil: if it has been consistently wet and the lower leaves are soft and yellowing, reduce watering immediately and check the drainage.
If the pot does not have adequate drainage holes or the growing medium is dense and moisture-retentive, these need to be addressed before watering adjustment alone will solve the problem.
Less commonly, yellowing across all new growth can indicate iron deficiency from a very alkaline growing medium; repotting in the recommended epiphyte mix addresses this.
Is lipstick plant safe for cats and dogs?
Yes. Aeschynanthus radicans is listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA in the US. In the UK, the PDSA and Blue Cross similarly list it as non-toxic.
This makes it one of the safer hanging basket and trailing plant choices for households with pets.
How do I get my lipstick plant to bloom more?
The two highest-impact changes are maximizing light and ensuring a winter rest.
Move the plant to your brightest indirect light position and add a grow light on a timer if natural light is limited, particularly in the UK and northern US states through winter.
For the winter rest, reduce watering, stop feeding, and allow the temperature to be slightly cooler (60 to 65 degrees F / 15 to 18 degrees C) for 6 to 8 weeks in winter.
This seasonal variation mimics natural tropical dry season conditions and resets the bloom trigger for the following spring. See the dedicated non-blooming section above for the full list of causes.
Can I grow a lipstick plant outdoors?
In USDA zones 10 to 12, Aeschynanthus radicans can be grown outdoors year-round in a shaded or semi-shaded position, sheltered from direct afternoon sun and cold winds.
In all other US zones and throughout the UK, it is a houseplant only. It is damaged by temperatures below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) and killed by frost.
In the UK, even the warmest coastal gardens in Cornwall and Devon will experience temperatures too cold for safe outdoor year-round cultivation of this plant.
Final Thoughts
Lipstick plant is one of the most rewarding houseplants for anyone willing to give it the light it needs.
The flowers, vivid red tubes emerging from dark calyxes and lasting two to three weeks at a time with multiple flushes through the growing season, are genuinely striking and unlike those of any other common houseplant.
The two things that make the biggest difference to long-term success are consistent light and restraint with watering.
As an epiphyte, this plant is built to handle intermittent dry periods far better than it handles sitting in wet soil.
Give it the best light you can offer, water based on what the medium tells you rather than what the calendar says, and prune after each flowering flush to keep the growing tips fresh and flowering-ready.
Everything else follows from those three habits.
| What to do right now: Assess your plant’s light position honestly. Is it within 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) of a bright window, or receiving equivalent light from a grow light for 12 or more hours daily? If not, improving the light situation is the single highest-impact change you can make, and it costs nothing. Then check the growing medium with your finger. If it is still damp, do not water regardless of when you last did so. Those two habits cover the majority of care decisions this plant needs. |
Mariel is a plant enthusiast and writer based in the UK with a passion for houseplants and indoor growing.
She has spent the last few years building an ever-growing collection of indoor plants and learning the hard way which ones will survive her busy schedule.
At Bean Growing she writes about houseplant care, common plant problems, and outdoor gardening.