Pothos vs Monstera: How to Tell Them Apart and Care for Each

A complete comparison guide covering leaf structure, growth habits, light, water, soil, and toxicity, with care tips for both plants.

Pothos and Monstera are two of the most popular houseplants grown indoors, and it is easy to see why people confuse them.

Both have glossy green leaves, both climb, and both are forgiving enough for beginners.

But the two plants belong to different growth habits, leaf structures, and care routines, and mixing up their needs can lead to problems such as

yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or root rot. This guide breaks down exactly how to tell a Pothos from a Monstera at a glance, what each plant needs to thrive, and which one is the better fit for your home.

The short version: a Monstera has larger, often fenestrated leaves and grows into a bushy, self-supporting climber, while a Pothos has smaller, solid heart-shaped leaves and grows as a trailing or climbing vine.

Below, we cover the differences and similarities in full detail, with a quick-reference table to start.

Pothos vs Monstera at a Glance

Use this table for a fast comparison before diving into the detailed sections below.

Pothos vs Monstera: What Do They Have in Common?

Before looking at what sets these plants apart, it helps to understand why they are so often confused in the first place.

Pothos and Monstera share a surprising number of traits, from their botanical family to their growing conditions.

1. Taxonomy

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a vining plant in the Araceae family. Monstera, sometimes called the split-leaf philodendron, is a climbing evergreen that also belongs to the Araceae family.

According to the Royal Horticultural Society, Monstera deliciosa is native to tropical forests of Central America, which explains why both plants share similar light, humidity, and soil preferences despite looking different at maturity.

2. Climbing and Trailing Habits

Both plants are natural climbers that use aerial roots to scale trees in their native rainforest habitats, reaching toward the forest canopy for light.

In the wild, both can grow to significant heights, though indoor specimens stay far smaller.

If you want to encourage either plant to climb rather than trail, our guides on how to train a Monstera to climb and how to stake a Monstera walk through the process step by step.

3. Sunlight Needs

Both plants are native to hardiness zones 10 to 12 and grow under filtered light beneath the forest canopy in the wild.

Indoors, this translates to a preference for bright, indirect light. Direct sun can scorch the leaves of both plants, so a position near an east-facing window, or a few feet back from a south-facing one, tends to work well.

For Monstera specifically, our guide on

Monstera light requirements covers exactly how much light different varieties need, and what to do if your Monstera does not seem to like direct sunlight.

• Variegated Pothos varieties can lose their patterning and revert to solid green if light levels are too low.
• Both plants generally prefer temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C).
• If natural light is limited, a quality grow light can fill the gap. Our roundup of the best grow lights for Monstera applies equally well to Pothos.

4. Soil Needs

Both plants develop aerial roots that, in the wild, draw moisture and nutrients from tree bark and the air.

Indoors, both need a well-draining potting mix. Pothos does well in any general aroid mix, ideally one part peat, one part potting soil, one part perlite, and a little compost.

Monstera is slightly more particular and does best in a peat-based mix with excellent drainage, as outlined in our guide on the best soil for a Monstera.

Both plants tolerate a fairly wide pH range, from neutral to slightly acidic, but neither will thrive in soil that stays soggy.

5. Watering Requirements

Pothos and Monstera are both prone to root rot if overwatered, and both prefer to dry out somewhat between waterings rather than sitting in constantly moist soil.

For Monstera, this typically means watering every one to two weeks during the growing season, only once the top inch or two of soil has dried out. Our full

Monstera watering schedule breaks this down by season. Pothos follows a similar rule: let the soil dry out, then water thoroughly until it drains from the pot.

Watch for drooping or browning leaf edges as a sign of underwatering, and black, mushy spots as a sign of overwatering in either plant.

6. Humidity and Temperature

Coming from tropical canopies, both plants appreciate higher humidity than the average home provides, though both will tolerate average household conditions reasonably well.

Monstera in particular benefits from regular misting, and our guide on misting a Monstera for humidity explains how often this should be done.

You can also check what ideal humidity levels look like for Monstera specifically. Avoid placing either plant near radiators, vents, or drafty windows, since sudden temperature swings stress both species.

7. Toxicity

How to Tell Them Apart at a Glance: Stems, Petioles, and Roots

Leaf size and fenestration are useful clues, but they are not foolproof, especially on a young plant that has not yet matured enough to show its full characteristics.

If you want a more reliable way to identify which plant you are looking at, examine the stem and the petiole, which is the small stalk that connects the leaf to the main stem.

Check the Petiole

On a Monstera, the point where the petiole meets the leaf often has a slightly ridged or crinkled texture called a geniculum.

This small joint allows the leaf to flex and rotate toward available light. A Pothos petiole is smooth along its entire length, with no equivalent joint.

If you run a finger along the base of the leaf and feel a distinct ridge, you are almost certainly looking at a Monstera.

Check the Stem

Monstera stems are noticeably thicker, firmer, and slightly flattened in cross-section, built to support a heavier, climbing plant.

Pothos stems stay slender and rounded throughout the plant’s life, since the plant is designed to trail and climb without needing to support large, heavy leaves.

Check Where the Aerial Roots Emerge

Both plants produce aerial roots, but they tend to emerge differently. On a Monstera, roots typically grow from the node on the opposite side of the stem to the leaf.

Pothos aerial roots are usually shorter, thinner, and more numerous along the stem.

If you are unsure whether the growths on your plant are roots at all, our guide on why your Monstera has aerial roots explains what is normal and what is not, including what to do if aerial roots start shrivelling.

Growth Rate and Lifespan Compared

If you are choosing between these plants based on how quickly you want results, growth rate is worth knowing in advance.

Pothos is the faster grower of the two by a wide margin. Under good conditions, a healthy Pothos vine can put on roughly 12 to 18 inches of new growth per month during the growing season.

Monstera grows more slowly but each leaf is dramatically larger, typically adding around 1 to 2 feet of new growth per year rather than per month.

Lifespan also differs considerably. Indoors, a well cared for Pothos commonly lives for around 5 to 10 years before it becomes leggy and benefits from replacement or heavy propagation.

A Monstera, by contrast, can live for decades with consistent repotting and care, with many houseplant owners keeping the same specimen for 20 years or more.

If you want a plant that becomes a long-term centrepiece rather than one you refresh every few years, this is a meaningful point in Monstera’s favour.

Propagation: Pothos vs Monstera Side by Side

Both plants propagate readily from stem cuttings, which is part of why they are so popular for sharing between plant owners.

The methods are similar, but the timelines and success rates differ.

Propagating Pothos

Pothos is widely considered one of the easiest houseplants to propagate.

Take a cutting with at least one node, the small bump on the stem where a leaf and aerial root emerge, and place it in water or directly into moist potting mix.

Roots typically appear within two to three weeks, and the cutting can be potted on once roots reach an inch or two long.

Pothos cuttings root reliably with very little intervention, which makes this a good first propagation project if you are new to growing plants from cuttings.

Propagating Monstera

Monstera propagation follows the same basic principle but tends to take longer and benefits from more care around humidity and warmth.

A cutting needs at least one node and ideally an existing aerial root to speed up establishment.

Rooting in water or a moist propagation medium such as sphagnum moss usually takes three to six weeks, sometimes longer in cooler conditions.

Our full Monstera propagation guide covers the process in detail, and if you are working specifically with Monstera Peru cuttings, that variety has a few of its own quirks worth knowing in advance.

If a cutting is taking an unusually long time, our troubleshooting guide on why a Monstera cutting is not rooting covers the most common causes.

Repotting and Root-Bound Tolerance

How often each plant needs repotting, and how well it copes if you delay, is a practical difference that affects long-term maintenance.

Pothos tolerates being rootbound unusually well, and some growers find it grows more densely when slightly snug in its pot.

Repotting every two to three years, or when you see roots circling the drainage holes or emerging from the surface, is generally sufficient. Monstera is less tolerant of cramped roots.

As it matures it develops a substantial root system that benefits from repotting every one to two years, moving up to a pot that is only modestly larger each time rather than jumping several sizes at once.

Our guides on choosing the best pot for a Monstera and repotting a Monstera cover sizing and technique in full.

It is also worth knowing whether Monstera likes to be root bound before you decide to delay repotting, since the answer differs from what many owners assume.

Variegation: Why Pothos Gets More Attention Here

Variegation, the white, cream, or yellow patterning that appears on some leaves, is far more commonly associated with Pothos in the houseplant trade.

Cultivars such as Marble Queen, Snow Queen, and Manjula Pothos are bred and sold specifically for their variegation, and this is one of the main reasons certain Pothos varieties command a premium price despite the species being easy to grow.

Monstera variegation exists too, most famously in Monstera deliciosa Albo and Thai Constellation, but it is rarer, less stable, and significantly more expensive, since variegated Monstera plants are usually propagated from a limited number of source plants rather than grown from seed.

If pricing has surprised you, our explainer on why some Monstera plants are so expensive covers exactly why variegated specimens can sell for hundreds of pounds while a standard green Monstera costs very little.

One practical note for either plant: variegated sections contain little or no chlorophyll, so they need more light than solid green leaves to support the plant’s growth, and a heavily variegated leaf can occasionally revert to green if light levels drop.

Best for Your Situation: Office, Pets, and Low-Light Rooms

Best for Offices and Low-Light Rooms

Pothos is the stronger choice here. According to NC State Extension, Pothos prefers bright, indirect light but survives for long periods in low light, which makes it noticeably more forgiving than Monstera in dim rooms or offices lit mainly by fluorescent lighting.

A Monstera kept in consistently low light will survive but is unlikely to develop fenestrations and may become leggy as it stretches toward any available light source.

Best for Homes with Pets

Both plants are toxic to cats and dogs, so neither is automatically the safer option.

In practice, Pothos is more often grown in hanging baskets or on high shelves, which naturally keeps it out of reach of curious pets, while Monstera is typically displayed at floor level where leaves are easier for a pet to access.

If you have pets that like to chew on greenery, positioning matters more than which species you choose.

Best for Renters and Small Spaces

Pothos is the more practical choice for smaller apartments or temporary housing, since it stays compact, needs less frequent repotting, and is easy to relocate.

If you do want to bring Monstera into a small space, our guide on Monstera care for beginners in small apartments has practical tips for managing its larger footprint.

Best for a Long-Term Statement Plant

If you want a plant that will be a genuine centrepiece for years or decades, Monstera wins this comparison.

Its larger leaves, longer lifespan, and dramatic fenestration as it matures make it better suited to becoming a focal point in a living room or office reception area, while Pothos works best as a supporting feature on a shelf or trailing down a bookcase.

Pothos vs Monstera: What Sets Them Apart?

Given how many growing conditions they share, the real differences between these plants come down to their physical structure and how they develop over time.

These are the details that matter most for identification and for tailoring your care routine.

1. Leaf Size

In the wild, a mature Monstera leaf can grow up to 50 inches long and 30 inches wide.

Indoors, that usually settles closer to 20 inches long and 15 inches wide, still a substantial leaf. Pothos leaves are considerably smaller.

In the wild they reach around 40 inches long, but indoor Pothos leaves typically average just 10 inches long and 6 inches wide.

If a leaf looks unusually large for a houseplant, it is far more likely to be a Monstera.

2. Leaf Structure and Fenestration

This is the clearest way to tell the two plants apart once they mature. A Pothos leaf is solid all the way through, with a smooth heart shape and no natural holes.

A mature Monstera leaf develops fenestrations, the characteristic splits and holes that give the plant its dramatic look.

Varieties like Monstera deliciosa and Monstera adansonii are well known for this. If you want to learn more about how this trait works, our guides on whether Monstera Peru fenestrates and Monstera varieties cover the differences across types.

3. Growth Habits

Monstera grows bushy. As it matures, it produces rosettes that attach to a support, send down aerial roots, and eventually form new shoots and leaves, creating a fuller plant over time.

If you notice aerial roots developing on your Monstera, this is completely normal and a sign of healthy growth, and our guide explains what to do with them.

Pothos, on the other hand, grows almost exclusively as a vine, sending out trailing shoots that reach toward light rather than building a bushy structure.

This makes Pothos a better choice for hanging baskets or shelving, while Monstera suits floor space where it can spread out.

4. Fertilization Needs

Because Monstera grows larger and faster, it is a heavier feeder than Pothos.

A balanced, diluted fertilizer applied every few weeks during the growing season supports healthy growth. Our guide on the best fertilizer for your Monstera goes into the specifics.

Pothos needs far less, typically a balanced fertilizer every couple of months, since most commercial potting mixes already provide some baseline nutrition.

Neither plant should be fertilized during late autumn or winter dormancy, since this can stress the roots rather than help growth.

Common Problems: Spotting and Fixing Issues Early

Because their care needs overlap so closely, Pothos and Monstera tend to run into similar problems, usually tied to watering, light, or humidity. Catching the signs early makes a real difference to recovery.

Yellowing Leaves

Yellowing is most often linked to overwatering, but it can also point to nutrient deficiency or low light.

For Monstera owners, our detailed guide on why Monstera leaves turn yellow walks through the most common causes and fixes, and the Monstera Peru-specific version covers that variety in particular.

Browning, Curling, or Cracking Leaves

Browning is frequently a sign of underwatering, low humidity, or sunburn, while curling and cracking can point to inconsistent watering or physical stress. See our guides on

• Monstera leaves turning brown
• Monstera leaves curling
• Monstera leaves cracking
• Monstera leaves ripping
• saving a Monstera with sunburn

Root Rot and Reviving a Struggling Plant

Overwatering is the leading cause of root rot in both plants. If you catch it early, both species can usually be saved.

Our step-by-step guides on fixing root rot in a Monstera and reviving a dying Monstera cover the full recovery process, including repotting into fresh, well-draining soil.

Slow or Stunted Growth

If growth has stalled, the cause is usually insufficient light, being rootbound, or a lack of nutrients.

Our guide on why a Monstera is not growing runs through the diagnostic steps, and our tips on getting a Monstera to produce more leaves are worth a read if your plant has plateaued.

Pests

Both plants can attract common houseplant pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, and thrips, particularly in dry indoor air.

Our guide to the most common Monstera pests covers identification and treatment, and if you are dealing with thrips specifically, see our guide on how to get rid of thrips on Monstera.

According to the University of Maryland Extension, increasing humidity and regularly rinsing foliage are effective preventative steps against spider mites on houseplants, and this applies equally well to both Pothos and Monstera.

Caring for Your Monstera Long Term

If you have decided that a Monstera is the right fit for your space, a few foundational guides will help you set it up for years of healthy growth.

• How to care for a Monstera, our complete care guide covering every stage of growth.
• Choosing the best pot for a Monstera, including sizing and drainage considerations.
• Repotting a Monstera once it has outgrown its current container.
• Propagating a Monstera, whether you are working with a standard Monstera or a Monstera Peru cutting, using our step-by-step propagation guide.
• Pruning a Monstera to manage size and encourage fuller growth.
• Caring for a Monstera in winter, since light and watering needs shift with the seasons. See our winter care guide.
• Cleaning Monstera leaves safely. Dust buildup blocks light absorption, and our guide on how to clean Monstera leaves without damaging them shows the right technique.

Choosing a Monstera Variety

Not all Monstera plants are the same. If you are drawn to a more compact, trailing variety, Monstera Peru and Monstera Siltepecana are both worth considering, and our breakdown of Monstera varieties covers the full range.

Some collectors are also surprised to learn that the Dragon Tail plant is sometimes mistaken for a Monstera, so it is worth checking before you buy.

If budget is a factor, our explainer on why some Monstera plants are so expensive and the related piece on the rarest Monstera varieties explain what drives price differences across the species.

Which Plant Is Right for You?

The right choice comes down to the look you want and the space you have available.

Choose a Monstera if:

• You want a bold, statement plant with large, dramatic foliage.
• You have floor space for a plant that will grow bushy and tall over time.
• You enjoy the look of fenestrated leaves once the plant matures.

Choose a Pothos if:

• You want a low-maintenance trailing plant for shelves or hanging baskets.
• You have limited space and want something compact.
• You are new to houseplants and want one of the most forgiving species to start with.

Both plants reward consistent, moderate care far more than frequent intervention.

Once you understand the differences in leaf structure, growth habit, and feeding needs covered above, either one makes a rewarding addition to an indoor plant collection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a Pothos turn into a Monstera, or vice versa?

No. Despite their similar appearance as juveniles, Pothos and Monstera are entirely different species and will never develop into one another.

A young, non-fenestrated Monstera will eventually grow holes in its leaves as it matures, but a Pothos leaf will always remain solid.

Which plant grows faster, Pothos or Monstera?

Under good conditions, both grow at a moderate to fast pace during the growing season.

Monstera tends to put on more visible size per leaf, since each new leaf is considerably larger, while Pothos produces new vines and leaves more frequently but at a smaller scale.

Is it safe to keep Pothos or Monstera around cats and dogs?

Both plants are mildly to moderately toxic to cats and dogs due to calcium oxalate crystals, and are best kept out of reach.

See our full guide on Monstera toxicity to pets for symptoms to watch for and what to do if your pet chews on the leaves.

Can I grow either plant in water only?

Pothos is well known for thriving in water long term. Monstera can also be grown this way for extended periods, though it generally does better when eventually moved to soil.

Our guide on growing Monstera in water only explains how to do this successfully.

Which grows faster, Pothos or Monstera?

Pothos grows significantly faster in terms of monthly vine length, typically adding 12 to 18 inches per month compared to roughly 1 to 2 feet per year for Monstera.

However, each individual Monstera leaf is far larger, so the plant can feel like it is making dramatic progress even though it produces fewer leaves overall.

Which plant lives longer?

Monstera typically has the longer lifespan of the two.

With consistent repotting and care, a Monstera can live for decades, while Pothos plants more commonly last around 5 to 10 years indoors before becoming leggy and benefiting from heavy pruning or replacement through propagation.

Why does my Monstera not have any holes in its leaves?

This is almost always down to the plant’s age or its light levels.

Young Monstera plants do not fenestrate regardless of care quality, and even mature plants need consistently bright, indirect light to develop splits.

If your plant is mature but still producing solid leaves, moving it closer to a brighter window is usually the fix.

Is Pothos or Monstera better for a beginner?

Pothos is generally the easier of the two for a first-time plant owner. It tolerates a wider range of light conditions, is more forgiving of inconsistent watering, and tolerates being rootbound for longer.

Monstera is still considered a beginner-friendly plant overall, but it is slightly less forgiving of low light and irregular watering than Pothos.

Can Pothos and Monstera be planted together in the same pot?

They can share a pot since they enjoy similar light, water, and soil conditions, though it is worth bearing in mind that Monstera will eventually outgrow and shade out a Pothos planted in the same container if left for several years.

If you do combine them, choose a generously sized pot and be prepared to separate them once the Monstera matures.